The debut collection by Pharrell Williams, creative director of menswear for Louis Vuitton, was the most eagerly anticipated show of the 2024 menswear season. Excitement and expectations for the collection have been high ever since the musician and producer was named to the position.
For the Spring Summer 2024 menswear show, celebrities from all around the world descended on the Pont Neuf, one of the oldest bridges in Paris. The roster of celebrities includes Beyoncé and Jay-Z, Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, LeBron James, Tyler The Creator, Zendaya, Kim Kardashian, Megan Thee Stallion, Jared Leto, Lewis Hamilton, Jaden and Willow Smith, Kelly Rowland, and Naomi Campbell. Rihanna, in fact, also starred in Mr. William’s first menswear campaign.
Taking inspiration from the sun, every element, from the graphics and color palette to the sparkling surface decorations, was elevated. The prized Louis Vuitton trunk materializes in Monogram Copper, a healing element essential to all living organisms and known to transform in the light of the sun.
An oversized multicolor Damier (chessboard) motif appears across the icons and twisted icons of the Maison. Damier bucket hats with LVERS studs were given a fun twist in fur with pearl chains. Damier crochet beanies were presented in primary colors, reflected in baseball caps adapted from the Speedy bag.
The energy and love that influenced the collection were palpable as the models paraded the runway in tailored suits worn with shorts, duster coats, jacquard suiting, leather bombers, and coats with Damoflage (a fusion of camouflage and damier). The damoflage appears again on caps, canvas bags, and a leather backpack, as well as in trainer trunks.
The “LVERS” symbol, which alludes to Mr. Williams’s native state’s slogan “Virginia is for lovers,” was created by the designer as an homage to the state. The collection also featured the Marque L. Vuitton Déposée emblem, which was pulled from the archives.
This doesn’t end here; artworks made by the American artist Henry Taylor that represent individuals from his life, can be seen as micro-embroideries on clothing made of denim and tailoring as well as accessories.
Stepping into Virgil Abloh’s shoes, Mr. Williams not only took cues from the late designer’s streetwear inspiration, but successfully managed to bring something of his own personality into it, while honoring the heritage of the brand.
