LF Says: ★★★★.5
Getting a quiet place to relax in a mall, especially in south Delhi, is akin to asking for the moon. No surprises then that such places come at premium prices with exclusivity built in. For those in the know, PVR’s Home, part of Director’s Cut, is one such haven, a refuge from the teeming mall crowds just outside. But its attractions go well beyond.
Simply named Home, the restaurant is an oasis that is refined, sophisticated and could be straight out of the greatest cities of the world. With the elegance of a Parisian salon and the charm of a London club, Home is built for a world traveller. Soft lighting, a discreet, well-stocked bar, a film screen running nostalgic favourites – mainly from the black and white era, posters of iconic cinematic moments adorning the walls, and loungers designed to relax make the ambience one of soothing grandeur. An oxymoron, you say? Well, we’ll talk after you've been.
However, easily the most noteworthy aspect is its menu – a delectable mix of world cuisine. Home has just launched a new menu, with Executive Chef Yutaka Saito, a veteran of Delhi’s culinary scene for decades, including a long stint at The Leela Palace New Delhi’s Megu. The new menu is a third each of Indian, European and Japanese cuisines, with a significant intermarriage between the three, making for some unique, delicious culinary moments. “This choice makes for more variety for our guests, who are well versed with global cuisines,” points out Chef Saito.
The menu has a number of fascinating dishes. And it's extensive. There are about a couple of dozen starters or small plates to choose from, almost evenly divided between vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Combinations abound, often beyond the realm of what one would think possible on a plate. Such as Pineapple and Iberico Ham Tempura (₹950), with a side of Sichimi. Or Miso Lamb Dango (₹790), which comes with bean curd sauce, smoked chili garlic and roasted sesame. Confit Duck Tenders (₹950), which came with thinly sliced Granny Smith apples, almonds, Nori dust and garlic aioli, turned out be another wonderful voyage of discovering how ingredients that seemed to have nothing in common, can come together wonderfully.
There’s a blast of flavour and texture in your mouth – simultaneously. “This is our philosophy – two three cuisines coming together while preserving the taste of each,” points out Rohit Lohani, DGM, Ops, Director’s Cut, Vasant Kunj and Home. Incidentally, Home has both indoor and rooftop dining areas, and is equally suited for a sunny brunch or a cosy dinner party.
The nod to the vegetarian clientele is just as elaborate – there are unique dishes such as the Butternut Squash Kebab (₹1,200) – think golden tikkis with a stuffing of bright orange gold within, accompanied with seed crackers, sour cream, tamarind glaze and murraba. Again, mouth melting texture – move aside galouti. For those with a tangy palate, try Avocado and Green Mango Tartare, which comes with apricot puree, tomatoes and green mango sorbet (₹550).
Image© Suman Tarafdar
Dimsums have their own section, as do sushis, sashimis and rolls. Chef Saito suggested Spicy Avocado (₹950) sushi, with cucumber, Tanuki, smoked paprika mayo and jalapeno as the veg option and Smoked Salmon Cream Cheese (₹1,050) for the omnivores. Just in case it slips my mind, each dish's plating was a work of art in itself – images do little justice to the impeccably presented dishes.
With India’s dining scene moving at a rapid pace, procuring Japanese ingredients is not as much of a challenge as it was 10 years ago. “Japanese items, we get every week. We can get anything, though of course, it’s very expensive,” Chef Saito says with a smile. Keeping the local palate in mind, Chef Saito has effortlessly merged local ingredients too with international techniques to craft something fresh.
The Mentaiko Risotto, with flavours of cod roe, prawns, scallops, and Ikura confit tomatoes, blend together perfectly in a soft, creamy textured and dreamy dish.
There are about a score of main dishes listed, again many with alluring names. The Matcha Crepe (₹1,250), with a filling of butternut squash, pistachio, sage oil and a side of piperade, was deliciously, enticingly soft and tasted just as scrumptious. The Mentaiko Risotto (₹1,250), with flavours of cod roe, prawns, scallops, and Ikura confit tomatoes, blend together perfectly in a soft, creamy textured and dreamy dish. There are familiar names on the menu too – such as Chicken Malai Curry (₹1,150), Lobster and Smoked Green Peas (₹1,150), which comes with brioche bread, coconut cream and shrimp butter. Do opt for less familiar flavours, such as Seabass with Dashi broth (₹3,350), or Chana Masala Terrine (₹750), with pickle beet, sour cream, truffle and pear. Yes, choices, as often in life, are hard!
Mentaiko Rissoto. Image© Suman Tarafdar
If you have space left, there are desserts, and even sides such as Asiago Kulcha, Saffron Garlic Pillaf Truffle, Parmesan Fries, Plantain Chips and Nori Crisps, among others. And of course, there’s a bar, presided over by Ashwini, who can be relied upon to conjure up magical cocktails. A heads up, the bar menu is even more extensive than the food menu, so unless you are sure of your poison, it might just be best to leave it to him to create that perfect beverage to match your majestic meal. The remarkable thing – no, Home is not members only, so walk in, tuck in, and see if you can resist becoming one!
LF Says: ★★★★.5
