In its 167-year long history, fine jewelry dealer Hancocks has become synonymous with rarity and splendor. Its window has served as a meeting spot for Cartier, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boucheron among others. This fall, a promising young brand is to join the roster – Amy Burton Fine Jewelry.
Yes, the same Amy Burton, whose parents have run Hancocks out of its upscale venue on the historic Burlington Arcade for over two decades. Since 2009, when Ms Burton joined the family business, she has delved into the technical and artistic qualities of antique pieces. Certified gemologist and jewelry designer, she now claims the craft with three inaugural collections – Disorient, Unum and Crescendo – that bear her creative musings, informed by her formal studies and work at Hancocks.
Presented on September 26 at the Morton's Private Members Club in London, Ms Burton’s works are as uniform in intention as they are distinct in aesthetics. Memorably bold and strikingly stylish, the jewelries – executed by British craftsmen and studded with gemstones – invoke subtle sophistication despite their sturdy shapes. Drawing and painting every piece by hand, Ms Burton dedicated two years and a half to taking the collections from sketch to finish. “In a lot of my design I love to walk a line between architectural, sculptural design and femininity,” Ms Burton said. “I keep toying with the design until I can feel that balance.”
The pursuit of harmony has jolted into disparate explorations with each collection, shaping up their unique characters. While Disorient wields geometry to configure five ornaments that are, at the same time, substantial and light, Crescendo brushes into hue and shade graduation to create two intense pieces. Unum, on the other hand, follows no tenets but the individual shape of the gems around which its three jewelries are built.
Although apparent in every adornment, the personality of the lines crystalizes in several masterful centerpieces. A gold cuff bangle entwined in a seemingly messy braid around a 123.7-carat purple amethyst embodies the dynamism of Disorient. A bib necklace that mixes tourmaline, garnet and amethyst to layer together tender lilac, raspberry pink and royal plum crowns the color study of Crescendo. A stunning ring of 63.8-carat yellow sapphire, which rests in a platinum basket beaded with diamonds, showcases the one-of-a-kind premise of Unum. All three cue to the sensuality and sensibility of Amy Burton Fine Jewelry.
“Jewelry is made to be worn, not hidden away in a safe. I want to design jewelry that people will wear and that will bring joy,” said Ms Burton, whose creations – ranging in price from £3,750 to £48,000 – are to add a fresh, modern counterpart to the retro and vintage offerings of Hancocks London.
