June 25, 2012: For Spring-Summer 2013, Bottega Veneta offers a collection inspired by the ease and informality of the pullover. This garment recalls styles as varied as navy seaman’s uniforms and South Asian kurtas. Indeed, at one glance, the collection seemed inspired by India!
Narrow, cropped pants worn with pullover shirts and t-shirts have an effortless feel. The slim, natural-looking silhouette is enhanced by nuanced tailoring and offhand layering.
Natural leather hues ground a palette filled with tempered shades of blue and gray. Refined fabrics from women’s wear, like silk chiffon, organza, silk poplin, silk crepe de chine, and parachute silk, are washed and treated, frequently paired with cotton, then used for shirts, windbreakers, anoraks, and jackets. Technical materials like ultrafine polyesters and dense synthetics with body and a supple hand add structure to slacks and shirts. There are cottons of varying weights, including fluid cotton jersey and cotton blended with linen.
Suedes range in weight and feel from superfine suede, with a liquid drape, to a heavier version with a dense, plush attitude. Wrinkled paper calfskin is distinguished by its rich surface and shine.
Functionality and an uncontrived approach to luxurious materials characterize the season’s accessories. Bags are soft, slouchy, and understated, often with long straps so they can be slung across the body. Shoes are ankle-high, with a pliable construction, minimal sole, and the relaxed energy of 1970s athletic shoes.
Creative Director Tomas Maier said, “It’s a piece that you find in traditional and contemporary cultures all over the world. And it’s worn by people doing so many different kinds of activities. Soldiers, sailors, fishermen, mountain climbers, they all wear a version of a tunic or pullover. We wanted to explore how it can work in contemporary wardrobes.”
