Luxury brand Chanel, one of the few private, family-owned companies in the luxury fashion industry, has strengthened its foothold in the luxury watch industry with its latest move – acquiring a 25% stake in the independent high-end watchmaking brand MB&F.
The move comes near to the 20th anniversary of MB&F. With this new partnership, Chanel aims to support MB&F’s innovative vision. Maximilian Büsser, the founder of MB&F, retains a 60% majority stake in the company, while Serge Kriknoff, who oversees R&D and production, holds 15%. Mr. Büsser, Mr. Kriknoff, along with Charris Yadigaroglou (Head of Marketing Communications) and Thibault Verdonckt (Head of Sales), will continue to lead MB&F.
Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery, said, “We are delighted to sign a strategic partnership with MB&F who share the same values of independence, creativity and excellence. The announcement is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and expertise, reaffirming our position in high-end watchmaking.”
Chanel’s investment injects fresh resources and strategic support into MB&F, setting the stage for exciting new developments. This move reflects Chanel’s ongoing strategy to partner with luxury experts to uphold and refine exceptional craftsmanship. Since launching its watchmaking division in 1987, Chanel has established a design studio at Place Vendôme in Paris and invested in G&F Châtelain Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, which it acquired in 1993.
The investment in MB&F continues Chanel’s tradition of fostering elite watchmakers, building on previous investments in Romain Gauthier (2011) and F.P. Journe (2018), both of which continue to operate independently.
“In addition to allowing us to pursue our independent path, free of any pressure on growth, the investment by Chanel will strengthen our operations by providing access when needed to their wider ecosystem and network of specialized suppliers,” Mr. Büsser said.
Former CEO of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces and a watch industry veteran, Mr. Büsser founded MB&F in 2005. Renowned for its unique kinetic timepieces, the brand combines artistry and revolutionary watch engineering. Mr. Büsser, with a background in luxury watchmaking at brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, has a keen interest in three-dimensional kinetic art which he describes as “Horological Machines.” The brand’s creativity has positioned it as a trailblazer in the luxury watch industry, winning nine awards from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
MB&F achieved revenues of CHF 45.4 million ($53.2 million) in 2023, and 419 MB&F wristwatches were reportedly produced during the same year. In 2021, the watchmaker launched a more accessible brand, M.A.D.Editions, which now produces around 3,500 pieces annually. The brand also supports mechanical art marvels through the M.A.D Gallery.
This new collaboration merges Chanel’s esteemed heritage with MB&F’s cutting-edge creativity, promising to elevate both brands.
Meanwhile, we are still wondering who will be Chanel’s new creative director.
