February 4, 2014: Karl Lagerfeld recently transformed the Grand Palais into the Cambon Club, a contemporary vision of a night club with minimalist décor, for Chanel’s Haute Couture show.
The aluminum floor was surrounded by mirrors veiled in muslin. "It’s like a night club from another galaxy," the designer explained. To the sound of an orchestra led by Sébastien Tellier, the dragonfly-like models walked down staircases that framed the stage, sporting sneakers on feet and hair in spiked tendrils.
This season, Mr Lagerfeld mixes the feminine corset with the sneaker. White and beige – the emblematic colours of Chanel – pinks, pastels and iridescent tones are electrified by blues, greens, gold, brass and black. The iconic jacket is transformed into a rounded shouldered bolero with large, rounded sleeves, whereas the suit becomes a trompe l'oeil effect bustier dress with widened hips to better emphasise an ultra-fine waist enlaced within a corset embroidered with stones and sequins.
Drawing attention to this slim silhouette, certain dresses are highlighted by curved lines embellished entirely with a field of white lace flowers. The short sleeves, boxy shoulders, the round and officer collars, the rounded and high necklines and the cropped jackets amplify the effervescent character Mr Lagerfeld wanted to breathe into this collection. The collection also includes trouser suits in iridescent tweed, tunics, vests, slim-fit trousers and cycling shorts.
Increasingly fluid, the silhouettes are liberated from the corsets with a silver lamé calf-length hobble dress, a strapless black and gold pleated dress. Some have a silken kimono influence, others stretch out in fluid and diaphanous trains or transform into veritable works of feathered art in powder and pastel hues. Equally ethereal, the ingénue bride took to the catwalk in a straight cut, translucent dress of embroidered silver.
In a game of contrasts and pretence, of pastels and weightlessness, for its 2014 Spring-Summer Haute Couture, Chanel unveils a sporty, graphic and decidedly modern collection.