June 5, 2012: Ermenegildo Zegna’s Autumn-Winter 2012 collection is designed for the man who arrives quietly, his Blackberry always connected to the global financial uncertainty but determined to take a break. He travels in style with suitcases luxuriously packed for impromptu occasions that certainly don’t contemplate an isolated ski cabin. Social life continues, fun and necessary, on the slopes and in the most exclusive lodges. The acclimatization of his wardrobe happens by degrees, creating unimaginable combinations between formal and sporty, where each garment is fashioned from the finest materials and infused with a manic attention to sartorial details.
The colours are inspired by the Oasi Zegna, a natural paradise belonging to the family, with various shades of wood brown, hazelnut, snow white, the okra of dry leaves and midnight blue. Blended together they create plaids, checks and chevron patterns, often mixed together to form nonchalant patchworks. The elongated silhouette of suits with two-button, natural-shouldered jackets gains volume in the outerwear featuring blouson and raglan-cut jackets.
A nod to the trench coat permeates the collection, conferring an informal air to coats, fustian capes and raw-edge shearling jackets. The Spazzolino, an ultra-luxurious brushed alpaca fabric introduced by Agnona in the 1970s makes its comeback with new finishes while cashmere, pure or blended, soft or with a Shetland hand, remains top choice.
The spotlight shines once again on the classic turtleneck, worn recurrently under jackets but above all, under patterned shirts, creating unexpected and uninhibited layers. Other must-haves include faded corduroy Cashco, distressed denim pants with turn up bottoms and leather selvedge and “Elements”, long seller parkas in Suri Alpaca.
Invigourated by the smell of resin and a relaxing sauna, for his night outings the Zegna man slides on a pair of evening slippers and dips into the elegance of white, blue and black, indulging in a quilted silk tuxedo peeking from under a robe coat cobbled from an amazing “sabled” Spazzolino.
