June 25, 2021: At menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna, the process of resetting is ongoing. The slate has been cleaned for a restart over the past few seasons, and it now takes the form of ‘New Set’: an evolutional, fluid code to re-enter the world by keeping the connotations of tailoring in both methodology and construction, while concocting new forms in new fabrications, tuned to the needs of today.
“My aim at Zegna is to create an accord between the essence of tailoring, which is our reason for being, and the rhythm of the modern world. What I have done is a rewiring of luxury crafting, following a flow that frees the man while keeping the distinctiveness, offering pieces that are easy to wear as they are inventive. Effortlessness is the key,” says artistic director Alessandro Sartori.
A distinct sense of lightness surrounds the collection. Collar-less kimono shapes, utilitarian chore coats, long dusters, oversized overshirts, and a new generation of knitwear are among the smooth and comfy silhouettes. Shapes may show off the clarity and consistency of design without any padding or structures, courtesy to light, finely woven fabrics and paper-thin leathers.
The New Set relies on the practicality and simplicity of workwear to give tailoring a progressive touch, with considerably larger pocket flaps and enlarged drawstrings making a statement without sacrificing utility.
The movement is defined by the fusion of shapes and innovative textiles, which include vegetable fibers, new blends, jersey, and #UseTheExisting fabrics. Long parkas are formed of overdyed wool, silk, hemp, and linen twills, while boxy blazers are made of padded, washed silks or featherlight nylons.
Summer coats with glazed wool have a liquid, shiny sensation. Geometric patterns are amplified and diluted, or patchworked into faded compositions, including the unprocessed blend of Italian wool from Bielmonte.
The colour palette is a wide spectrum, ranging from pastel, lemony shades, to earthy greens and browns, and deep marine blues.
