October 1, 2012: For Spring Summer 2013, Veronica Etro presents her vision of 21st century romanticism. Representing a dream-like earthly paradise, the collection delves into a female fantasy with simplified shapes and compact materials.
Rejecting computer-generated prints, Etro draws upon the nearly extinct art of hand-painted prints. Each work of art has been expressly placed and printed on the garment for which it was designed. Inspired by feminine Orientalist paintings, the leitmotif of the collection are flora and fauna, conceived as a modern paisley. Painterly brushstrokes add new depth and shades to paisleys. Birds of paradise, butterflies, flamingoes and geckos cavort within the fantasy foliage, at times mixed with graphic tie prints and Japanese vase prints. The romanticism is cut by thick trims of sporty stripes, running horizontally, vertically or asymmetrically. The liberal use of black and white void spaces frame the prints, while coral, pink, lemon, lime and blue offer pops of colour.
Fabrics are compact. Luxurious cady stretch, thick silk sablé, stiff cottons and drappe, underscore the constructed looks and add a sporty flair. Micro crystal embroidery traces only the background space of an exotic print, leaving the painted pattern exposed. Quilted kimonos have been painted and then embroidered.
Clean silhouettes dilute the decorative effect of the prints. The constructions have an air of the East. The Judo pant – wide legged, cropped and tied at the waist – is paired with Kimono-style jackets or petal wing tops. Simplicity reigns on handkerchief tops, long wrap skirts, and dresses cut from a single square of fabric. Some playful twists include dresses with one sleeve, apron-front one piece suits, half-Sari draping over pants and under a jacket, and gentle waves of rigid ruching along pants, tops and dress fronts.
The accessories are set off by silver metal and hard leather. Natural details like hard stones or knots appear on bags, jewellery and high heeled leather sandals or flats. Chunky mirrored heels set off leather sandals, while stiff belts are in stitched cotton. The florals and paisleys find their way onto folded handbags, while clutches with hard stone closures reveal surprising origami-like constructions.
