July 5, 2012: For its Spring Summer 2013 men’s collection, Etro delves into the inner workings of the human mind. The show unfolds on two concentric levels, distinguished not only conceptually, but also spatially.
The higher and the outermost level is oneiric and speculative which represents the inspirational, most creative and profound part. It’s the dimension of the “Giants”, the Titans, and the Fomorians. The inner level represents the human dimension, made up of the aspirations people find in their dreams, thus in the higher circle.
The collection is enveloping but fluid. Everything is soft, rounded and easy. It represents smoothness of motion, lightness and newfound values. Weightless but substantial. The rustle of silks, the turban and the reinterpretation of Playsley evoke the Indian spirit of the epic verses of the Mahabharata. The chromatic development flows in waves of colour, from blue to white, symbolizing the attainment of a state of serenity and light.
The collection aims to retrieve the essence and capture the scent of what has led us to this point. It goes back to one’s roots to again reach the level of modernity and have fun along the way. The garments highlight the absence of weight and project an actual sound. They rustle. The silhouettes are maternal, soft and comfortable, contrasting with the discipline of tailoring details and bold cuts. Feminine in principle, yet externally virile and powerful.
The lapels in the jackets are rounded and echo a man’s uniform somewhat. Whether it is Saharan, appearing as if inspired from a soldier on a pilgrimage, or the perfect look for a party at the embassy, they are all impeccable. The trousers are loose, narrowing around the ankles or left in a straight loose cut. The shirts are long and comfortable.
The Playsley print, in its most traditional and original version, is interpreted in degrading, softened, mellow shades. It is teamed with Madras patterns or has the texture of memory, of a pencil sketch. Hand-crafted, the embroidery is the feather in the entire collection’s cap, based on the principle of ‘Absolutely Made in Italy’. The colours range from blue to brilliant white, including autumnal shades faded by the sun, worn and dense, mixed together, with sporadic bright appearances.
The accessories include large, ultra-light printed leather or nylon bags and sandals which are beautiful, essential and for authentic travellers.
