July 6, 2016: The Fall/Winter 2016-2017 CHANEL Haute Couture collection was presented this Tuesday on July 5th. For the show, beneath the glass roof of the Grand Palais, the ateliers on the rue Cambon have been recreated down to the smallest detail. With tables, sewing machines, mirrors, pins, fabrics, multi-colored threads, toiles and mannequins: the inner world of seamstresses is put under the spotlight and animated before the audience by the premières of the ateliers, followed by their seconds and the 78 seamstresses from the House of CHANEL which counts more than 120.
This season the cut is defined by a sleek silhouette. It forms the thread running through a structured collection, featuring beveled or angular cut shoulders, held with stitches to create a “standing up” effect, and framing a flat profile without any padding. The 3/4 length sleeves answer the 7/8 turn-ups hems of the culottes and wide-cut trousers worn over draped leather thigh boots. The tweed jackets highlight the waist with protruding pockets on the hips.
For evening, the silhouette is inspired by the work of English illustrator Aubrey Beardsley. While shoulders and hems of dresses are adorned with crests of feathers, the high waists, sometimes punctuated with pockets, smooth the silhouettes. The fabrics radzimir, ziberline, mikado, taffetas and faille are joined by chiffons, crêpe georgette, organza, silk tulle, embroidered laces and almost transparent grosgrains. Autumn shades – browns, marron glacé, oranges, beige and greys – are mixed with a palette of pinks, blacks and whites as block colors or woven in duos.
The Haute Couture features minute details sometimes barely visible. The linings of the pockets is reworked, stitching is spun with fringed spirals and braids are plaited with tulle and tweed. The embroidery of stones, matt sequins, beads and feathers are combined to create flowers and compose neck straps. Draping alternates with bias cut pleats as well as accordion, cone, sunray and flat pleats. The highlight of the collection is the bride. This season Karl Lagerfeld has imagined her in a bustier and trousers fashioned from lace, tulle and satin encrusted with strands of pink and white wool, as well as a jacket and train embroidered with feathers.
