Coffee and Indore are two words that usually don’t go together. Especially not when the former implies a roastery. Coffee, and especially coffee culture, doesn’t have long antecedents in India. However, in keeping with the increasing interest in quality coffee offerings, a number of new players are coming up with options that cater to discerning coffee drinkers.
“For me, coffee is more than a beverage; it’s a craft that deserves transparency from farm to cup.”
An increased interest in specialty coffees is seeing new coffee roasters emerge, eager to push the credentials of Indian coffee. Amongst the recent entrants to the space are Indore-based Siolim Specialty Coffee Roasters, Central India’s first specialty coffee roastery. Beginning its journey in August 2022, the roastery has carved an enviable niche for itself in the emerging Indian specialty coffee space.
The brand comes inbuilt with dreams, an ambition of going global, along with a strong base of ethical sourcing and sustainability. “I founded Siolim Specialty Coffee Roasters with the desire to create a brand that embodies quality, traceability, and fair trade,” says Rishabh Sanghvi, Founder, Siolim Specialty Coffee Roasters. “For me, coffee is more than a beverage; it’s a craft that deserves transparency from farm to cup. My vision for Siolim is to not only serve exceptional coffee but also to build a community of conscious coffee drinkers who appreciate the stories behind every sip.”
“My journey with coffee began as a personal obsession with understanding its complexities—from the unique flavours of each bean to the way it brings people together,” Mr. Sanghvi explains enthusiastically, who travelled extensively, especially in Italy, to understand the nuances and intricacies of the coffee culture.
Coffee core
Gaurav Sethi, CEO and Head Roaster, who has been working with coffee for almost a decade, is focused on creating and providing the best coffee experience. Mr. Sethi got exposed to coffee during his pursuit of hotel management in Goa. “There I got to know the different kinds of coffees there are in the market. Also, I came to understand the experience that came with it, the people who were brewing it. I really got connected with it. It’s just not the beverage. It is an experience.”
The first hint that Siolim’s coffees are unique perhaps comes from their names. Anjuna Espresso Blend, Ratnagiri Yeast Washed RDNW, Ratnagiri Nitro Yeast RDNN, Raxidi Lobo’s P1 Natural, Baarbara Estate Washed Coffee, Ratnagiri Estate Washed Coffee, Whisky Barrel Aged, Ratnagiri Lactic Natural… Largely descriptive, especially of the bean’s source, they help in the brand’s claim of transparency.
The duo experienced the coffee ecosystem in India. Mr. Sethi mentions his stays in 2016 at estates run by Coffee Day Global Limited, which owns India’s largest coffee chain, Café Coffee Day. “I got connected with the farmers, what they are doing, how they are doing it and the challenges that they are facing. That experience opened up my mind in the coffee industry a lot. We understood what goes on and how the coffee is coming to your table.”
Siolim also does not use any middlemen, preferring to source directly from the farmers, reasoning that the end user ends up paying a higher price, which is not good for home brewers.
That was where the core of Siolim was born. Mr. Sethi stresses that taking care of the growers, the farmers, is crucial. “Take good care of these people, and that would ensure my product would be very good. That was our first thing. We understood from the farmers about what their goals were, how much strength, how much time, and how much hard work that they put in growing just one bean. It was huge. And we wanted that in our brand as well.”
Siolim also does not use any middlemen, preferring to source directly from the farmers, reasoning that the end user ends up paying a higher price, which is not good for home brewers. “Coffee is not that expensive, but coffee machines are expensive, and I didn’t want anyone to feel that with our coffee,” points out Mr. Sethi.
Currently, Siolim is working with around five to six farmers and six estate owners, who have farmers with them. “We do not hide anything, either from our partners or our customers,” says Mr. Sethi proudly.
Checks and balances
Mr. Sethi describes the intense quality control process at Siolim. “These coffees come to us in huge 60kg packs. We divide it first, and get it cleaned once again. It is 98% clean already, but we make sure it’s 100%, making sure that no defective coffee goes into our roaster. We do quite intensive coffee checks. There are dedicated people that sit there and check each and every bean that goes into production. We keep a very detailed log about the checks, including the moisture content of the coffee. It needs to be very precise, and cannot go above 11%. Then we have colour analysers where we analyze the actual colour – what colour the coffee should be and what we have got. This is followed by the density check. Then small batches are made and profiled. Finally cupping or coffee tasting sessions are done.”
He adds, “We are very proud of this process because we take ample amount of time to ensure the best product is going out.”
I tried the Madeera Rum Barrel Aged – and as promised, the subtle notes of rum are distinctly discernible.
Just in case first time customers are unsure of what to expect, each coffee comes with its own page on the Siolim website. Divided into Roasted Coffee, Madeera and Cascara (the usually discarded coffee fruit peels that are transformed into fruity brews or baking ingredients), sampler packs and ready to brew options are available.
Each page broadly offers information on flavours to expect, producer, process, altitude, varietal and roast profile. You can choose the Grind Size you need, such as Whole Beans, Expresso, Filter Coffee, Pour Over, Aeropress, French Press, Cold Brew and Moka Pot. Additionally, there is also a descriptive note, though you may choose to reach your own conclusion on the flavours. The year of production is also mentioned.
The page on Anjuna Espresso Blend, for example, mentions a “medium body with a rich chocolate aftertaste” along with the “sweetness of raisins and the fruity essence of pear” and “delivers a distinctive touch with subtle nutty undertones”. I tried the Madeera Rum Barrel Aged – and as promised, the subtle notes of rum are distinctly discernible. Washed beans are soaked in oak barrels for 45 days, after the barrels have been soaked in rum for 30 days! Unsurprising then that the rum notes seep through!
A very crucial part for Siolim is the packaging. Uniquely, the brand uses tin boxes for their products. “We are the only one using tin packaging. What resonated with us were the boxes that we had seen in our houses, proper tin boxes, which were very sustainable, long lasting and the wastage and the environmental damage was very less.”
Flying global
To popularise the brand, Siolim is taking several approaches. Mr. Sethi travels to colleges across the nation, hosting coffee sessions with the help of communities. “We also collaborate with different communities. For example, there are several coffee communities in every city, such as the Mumbai coffee community or the Delhi coffee community. Coffee is a very physical thing and people need to understand and experience it. Every month, we do at least two to three events in different parts of the country.” The brand has also set up a school for baristas and has taken out its own merchandise.
Having established itself in Indore, the next stop for the brand is Mauritius. “We want our brand to stand out globally, making sure that Indian coffee is presented at its best,” says Mr. Sethi. “We have decided that for the next five years, we will be present in five countries.” Expansion within the country will also follow at some point, he says.
The efforts to create a world class product are apparent – from the packaging and the notes to the actual sip of a delicious brew. For an unparalleled experience with Indian coffee, indulge yourself with some of Siolim’s best. A note of caution – as many of them are microlots, their availability depends on production. If there are particular flavours you want to try, we suggest ordering fast!
