Fluid cuts, defined shoulders and faux furs take the classic Burberry spirit into modern times
April 23, 2021: Not that this style of power dressing is new, but it certainly is a new direction for Burberry. Riccardo Tisci’s first womenswear presentation for Burberry sets out a bold interpretation of modern femininity, shedding archetypes and readdressing preconceptions. The collection carries a sense of unflinching pride and conviction. The looks reinvent tradition, literally.
Continuing the theme laid out at the Burberry Autumn/Winter 2021 menswear presentation, the womenswear collection too pays homage to the indomitable force of Mother Nature and the widespread British craft and outdoor movements of the early 20th century. With fluttering capes and references to flags, the collection nods to people who daringly venture into nature.
“Throughout my life, my mother has been this incredible force of nature. As a single parent, she raised me and my eight sisters with unfaltering purpose and pride. So, naturally, I have always been drawn to strong women and, in turn, they have also given me the confidence to express my own femininity. They are not afraid to challenge expectations and I have always been in such awe of their determination. They are warriors,” says Mr. Tisci, Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer.
Referencing the animal kingdom, a Burberry house code, trompe l’oeil prints and tactile faux furs play on the natural and the fashioned. The trench coat is crafted in bonded faux fur and leather, photographic fox print wool, and geometric intarsia. Reconstructed duffle coats in faux mink and curly shearling add luxuriousness. Unexpected adornment on hoods and exaggerated pelt fringing add drama. Faux fur is embroidered into the caped silhouette of a dress, and the paneling of tailored shorts.
A rich and earthy palette of green, soft fawn, camel, beige, copper, pecan brown, black, and saffron express the collection. Bright inflections in a rainbow of red, gold, orange, pink and tulip yellow express optimism.
Evoking a sense of freedom, fluttering cape-sleeve dresses in colour block and animal print, and fluid unlined outerwear make an impression. The collection, though minimalist, is bold and bright. A sharp-shouldered boxy blazer; tapered trousers with cut-out cuffs; and fringed and panelled longline shorts spell muscle. The Burberry cape finds new expression, silhouetting the shoulders in magnified check cashmere, and spliced with a tailored jacket. A gleaming gold lamé trench coat with eyelet fringing, and draped silhouettes illuminated with hundreds of lightcatching paillettes – evoke the colour and patina of the sun - the strength of feminine energy.
“I wanted this collection to feel truly emblematic of the power of feminine energy: a modern armour that captures its characteristic fierce aura. There’s an underlying attitude to the collection that’s very British; of being unique, eccentric and totally authentic in how you express yourself. This presentation is a love letter to women and a celebration of their incomparable strength,” explains Mr. Tisci.
In accessories, a sense of fluidity inspires the new Flag bag, a soft tote with metallic embroidered fringing – presented in paillette adorned silk, and smooth lambskin annotated with Thomas Burberry’s initials. The Olympia collection evolves with fresh iterations, its athletic aura redefined with a new femininity – an Olympia scarf tote and clutch. The supersized messenger bag in faux fur and shearling is again inspired by the animal kingdom.
A new wraparound eyewear – evolved from a sports-influenced frame – in injected nylon with a graphic gold-plated brow bar made an appearance in the show. Bells, bolts and resin pearls punctuate rings and earrings.