Through the seams and stitching of Louis Vuitton’s Cruise Collection 2017, Nicolas Ghesquière displayed a runway exhibition set in a tropical paradise, inspired commendably, and creatively, by art.
By: Gabriella Bomben
Posted on June 3, 2016
Brazilian artists, Hélio Oticica and Aldemir Martins, have always used shades, shapes and forms in inventive ways, to create artworks, which are contemporary and bright. Mr Oiticica uses the Neo-Constructivist style of geometric abstraction, experimenting with color, form and material. Modernists like Piet Mondrian and Wassily Kandinsky were also major influences on his work. Mr Martins, on the other hand, incorporated bold and bright designs inspired by the beauty of nature in his works.
It was these sensibilities and pop of Brazilian colors that were interpreted by creative director Nicolas Ghesquière in his Cruise 2017 collection for Louis Vuitton.
Gliding down the grand white circular edifice and ultramodern walkway of the Niterói Contemporary Museum of Art in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, the models were like walking works of art from an exhibition. Mr Ghesquière infused the two worlds of art and fashion into the 2017 Cruise collection fashion show reflecting Brazil’s vitality, energy, multi-culturalism, freedom, urban futurism and romanticism.
Pair the idyllic scene of Rio’s tropical environment in the background with the modernist architectural structure designed by Oscar Niemeyer in the foreground, and you have a show captivated by a dance of colors and intriguing silhouettes. The architect of the Niterói Contemporary Museum of Art, Oscar Niemeyer, harmonizes the paradox of civilization versus the natural in its placement near Guanabara Bay. The collection itself evokes the culture of Brazil through its art and fashion, by bringing the colorful vibrant paintings full of shapes and spatial contrast of compositions by Mr Oticica or Mr Martins to life, and transforming them into resort wear that exudes luxury.
Colours, textile prints and silhouettes – all took cues from the artwoks of these two masters. The repeated shapes, color contrast, asymmetrical lines and the geometric forms, are all elements that contours and elongates the body in an ascetically pleasing manner. The effortless flow of draped dresses and skirts induced a lively sentiment of movement down the runway.
A good pant suit is always a must in any collection that can take a look from day to evening with the right shoes and accessories. Edgy and empowering were also prominent themes in this collection. The repeated element of pockets and torso cut outs challenged the perception of glamorous resort wear, while still reflecting the two Brazilian artists’ techniques with negative and positive space.
Ruffles were a repeated element, a purposeful choice to keep the collection coherent. Perhaps an allusion to the many birds painted by Mr Martins? With both open and closed toed shoes, the collection offers a sporty yet fashion forward impression of cruise line apparel.
The warm humid air in Brazil set the scene for this tropical collection and with Mr Ghesquière’s effortless, elegant garments, this Louis Vuitton Cruise collection made the museum come to life. By combining fine art and fashion in a stark location, the French designer created a utopian spectacle and a luxurious experience.