Fluid and comfortable, the new collection takes into account the stay-at-home reality of current times
January 20, 2021: Called The (Re)Set, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Fall Winter 2021 collection mirrors the new reality that the world is facing by presenting designs that are relaxed, comfortable and plush.
As the personal space and the public space meld together, Alessandro Sartori’s creations reflect that as lounging, living and working collide in one single activity. “We all are experiencing a new reality concerned with new needs, which lead us to previously unseen lifestyles and attitudes. It is precisely at a time like this, when everything is under discussion, that we, at Zegna, have decided to (Re)set. We have looked at our roots to (Re)interpret our style codes and (Re)tailor the modern man. Outdoor and indoor come together and a new way of dressing takes hold, where comfort and style blend to create a new aesthetic,” says Mr. Sartori.
A new and varied generation of jersey fabrics take center stage at Zegna. Shapes are fluid, comfortable and adaptable. Mr. Sartori takes inspiration from shawl collars, belted robe de chambre, and track pants to create the next level of ‘formal’ collection.
Archetypal items get new functions in a switch of forms, weights and materials. Chore coats in cashmere, wrapped as a robe, take up the role of habitual sport codes, hybrid suits are in double cashmere, unreleased groups of knitwear replace shirts, new sweaters made of felted cashmere and knit, or knitted out of leather, are meant as outerwear; trousers and jackets are cut in shearling. Even briefcases, the very epitome of business, are deconstructed.
The reimagined suit, either loose or with a blazer tailored close to the body, is crafted to take the wearer’s form, instead of the wearer conforming to it. It can be as supple as being cut entirely in knitted cashmere or jacquard, and is worn with loose turtlenecks or zip-up tops in place of a shirt.
Volumes are relaxed for the dropped shouldered jackets and the shirt jackets matched with full trousers, for the belted coats, the blousons and the double front jumpers.
The #UseTheExisting mindset continues to be imperative. The collection is painted in notes of Alpine star white, Autumn foliage beige, Felce green, smoky grey, dense black, forest mud with sudden accents of orange. The overall chromatic solidity is broken by the glitched pied de poule that swarm in optical jacquards, and by diagonal stripes.