With Paris Fashion Week 2024 having passed by in a whirl of back-to-back runways, Loewe staged its SS25 Menswear show at La Garde Républicaine to close out the Week, showcasing an array of ‘razor sharp’ looks in the sharpest of shows.
The collection “A Radical Act of Restraint” by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe SS25 features minimalist designs inspired by renowned American writer Susan Sontag, highlighting everyday objects made extraordinary by artists like Hujar, Mackintosh, Scarpa, and Thek. “I wanted to bring together something very personal to me: several artists and architects who are very singular voices in their field,” Mr. Anderson said. Emily Ratajkowski, Mahmood, Evan Peters, Jeff Goldblum, Wang Yibo, Noah Jupe, and Aron Piper were seated in the front row.
Mr. Anderson continues to coalesce signature LOEWE house codes with bang-up-to-date silhouettes, refined details, and assenting styling. For Spring/Summer 2025, Mr. Anderson dives for micro and macro scales, presenting a lineup that screams quintessentially Loewe. He has imbued the luxury maison with a miscellany of discernible hallmarks, like fine art proclivities, classy branding, arresting leathercraft, magnified proportions, and some of the best and wildest pants in the luxury business.
Against the set, the ensembles themselves were a fractured milieu. From the outset, with faces veiled by elongated, occasionally golden feathers, the tailoring was resonant with finesse and precision, as looks unraveled with riveting twists.
Opening the collection with a black tailored suit paired with elongated oxfords, Loewe inclines towards the slim silhouette while emphasizing the texture and how it communicates with volume. Every get-up and inch of detail is scrumptiously precise.
The attention was on how the creations transitioned in movement. Trousers moved back to the front while a coat was frozen in time, opening at the front. Skin-revealing metallic waistcoats are evocative of watchband links.
Bare-chested silhouettes showed off billowing draped pants. Knit floral form shirts cascade down to the thighs. Luxe materials divulge linings as sumptuous as the exterior. The materials employed shone with opulence, capturing a top made of mother-of-pearl.
The audience was greeted with fierce high-rise and deep-pleat slacks that recede underneath tucked vareuse tops, fold-over trousers with undulating leather or suiting wool forms manipulated into textural waterfalls, and voluminous harem-style pants that ballooned from boots boasting a weave akin to a cable-knit sweater.
Even the slim, washed-out jeans, an Anderson favorite, had their belt loops eclipsed by exotic leather belts that looked to be built into the waistband.
While check motif dominanted the scene, a polo shirt hand-embroidered with feathers in a houndstooth pattern flexed the luxury house’s craftsmanship in awe-inspiring detail. Loewe’s moniker turns into a dramatized top in vibrant hues. Japanese Shibori dyeing appears on white tops as light as scarves, showcasing Loewe’s deep reverence for centuries-old craft techniques.
Loewe once again exemplifies its art of illusion as double-circled ostrich leather belts link tops and pants, drawing the eyes to the waist. Iconic LOEWE pieces like the Puzzle bag and Pebble soft hobo bag get a new life injected with a refreshed new attitude.
