LF Review: ★★★★★
Whether you agree or not, gastronomy will always be one of the most important aspects of everyone’s lives, because it is the only thing that truly binds all the senses together, all at once. As celebrated Spanish restaurateur and chef Jose Andres Puerta once said, “I realized very early the power of food to evoke memory, to bring people together, to transport you to other places, and I wanted to be a part of that.” Food is transformational.
While there is no dearth of north Indian restaurants in Mumbai, the city is also no stranger to culinary comparisons and is often pitted against the likes of Delhi, Lucknow and Amritsar to name a few. However, JW Marriot Mumbai Sahar’s new culinary chapter, BarQat, will certainly serve as a winner when it comes to Mumbai’s fine-dining north Indian restaurants.
Bringing flavors and cooking techniques from the Awadhi kitchens, BarQat hits some strong nostalgic chords. Nestled near the hotel’s picturesque poolside, BarQat offers an unparalleled dining experience under the starlit sky. BarQat’s open-air al fresco setting provides an excellent ambiance, blending modern aesthetics with timeless tradition. Despite being located in one of the busiest areas of Mumbai, the restaurant feels secluded and completely away from the bustle of the city.
Succulent and smoky, the classic seekh kebabs as well as the Bhatti chicken and prawns were drenched in flavors.
Of bhattis and spices
The culinary journey at BarQat started with a sumptuous kebab platter and cocktails for the table. For drinks, we went for gin-based cocktails from their special menu. The Coco Mahura and Passionfruit Coupe were both very refreshing. The full bar menu, apart from the malts and wines, offers signature cocktails like the White Tea Daiquiri and Tapioca Pearl. JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar is home to a spectacular kitchen garden, including an extensive hydroponic garden, that grows a range of ingredients widely used in their menu. Be sure to try the JW Garden cocktails made with housegrown Kokum and Spearmint.
For appetizers, we were served the quotidian Lucknowi Mutton Seekh with mint and coriander chutney followed by two delicacies made with the traditional bhatti (or chargrilling) – Bhatti ka Kalmi (chicken legs smoked with Awadhi spices) and Bhatti ka Jheenga (Tiger Prawns marinated with brown onions and house spices). Succulent and smoky, the classic seekh kebabs as well as the Bhatti chicken and prawns were drenched in flavors. The charred texture added an extra zing coupled with the chutneys.
The Mahi Ambi Tikka deserves a special mention in the appetizers. As a Maharashtrian, who has grown up eating coconut-based salmon delicacies, I found the pairing of chargrilled salmon with raw mango chutney rather intriguing. As it turns out, this dish is favorite among the expat crowd of the restaurant.
Royal comfort food
The main course was nothing short of a royal Nawabi affair. For the bread basket, we went for the signature Khameeri Roti, a sourdough bread staple from the Mughal era, and the Lucknowi Kulcha. Any discussion about Lucknowi or North Indian cuisine is incomplete without the famed Gosht Nihari. For the unversed, Gosht Nihari is a delicious, slow-cooked bone marrow meat stew prepared in ghee and traditional spices. It is a winter favorite and BarQat’s signature Gosht Nihari provided absolute comfort with the soft Khameeri Roti.
BarQat’s sophisticated simplicity is what sets it apart.
Another absolute must-try at the BarQat is the Awadhi Gosht Biryani. A burst of flavors, this Biryani is bound to leave one impressed. For those who wish to stick to the archetypal north Indian delicacies, the Chooza Makhani (the classic Butter chicken as we all know it) and the Dal Makhani will put the culinary comparisons to rest.
For vegetarians, the Haldi Malai Mutter (a thick green peas gravy made with turmeric and cream) could serve as a mild, calming dish paired with rice or Kulcha.
The sophisticated nostalgia of dining
New restaurants in the city are drawing inspiration for their cuisine as well as their ambience from international trends, catering to mostly Gen-Z audience. BarQat’s sophisticated simplicity is what sets it apart. While the food is unforgettable, it is the overall atmosphere that will transport you to older, simpler times.
Considering the festive winter air, the next couple of months would be ideal to visit this place and enjoy the al fresco setting. BarQat also boasts an enclosed bar lounge, for patrons inclined towards drinks as opposed to dining. While the restaurant’s setting is simple, the lattice walls of the enclosed bar lounge are reminiscent of the Nawabi interiors.
Food is an all-encompassing experience, and at BarQat, this experience comes together very organically. One of the factors that binds it together would definitely be the live instrumental music playing old Bollywood classics.
At a final glance, BarQat offers gastronomic aficionados a culinary haven that pays homage to the rich lineage of Indian cuisine, skillfully presented by chefs with extensive experience and expertise in Indian cuisine. The heart and soul of BarQat lies in curating an elaborate journey through authentic spices, flavors, ancestral recipes and traditional cooking techniques with a touch of modern presentation.
After my experience at this fine establishment, I could resonate with English celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal, who says, “To me, food is as much about the moment, the occasion, the location and the company as it is about the taste.”
LF Review: ★★★★★
Coordinates: IA Project Rd, Navpada, Vile Parle East, Vile Parle, Andheri, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
