Nigo, the Japanese artistic director of Paris-based luxury house Kenzo, showcased his 52-looks in the Palais Royal Gardens. A majestic fountain and golden sands were a fitting background to the Kenzo Spring Summer 2025 collection which features an intriguing amalgamation of cultural elements of Japan and an unmistakable Parisian flair. Several A-listers, including singer-designer Pharrell Williams and Maluma, graced the show.
Nigo continues to strive for a more seamless amalgamation to bridge the gap between Tokyo and Paris through a litany of cultural references. The lineup was cut up between men’s and women’s silhouettes, with the former bringing in digitized plant graphics, alfresco embroidery, and adventurous accessories.
Menswear embodied an East-West sensibility in sporty outerwear, relaxed tailoring, and baggy satin pants derived from the tobi-shoku worn by Japanese workers.
Double-breasted suits with softened weeds and netted tanks offer an escape in Kenzo-branded flip-flops. Three-piece sets in muted green tones were paired with wide-brimmed hats and vibrant sling bags.
Tonal denims arrived with embroidered neckties and full-zip hoodies, while graphic artist Verdy’s plush cartoon tigers perched on cropped outerwear. Pocketed safari vests completed the first section with Kenzo’s signature varsity jackets and patched metal-clasped bombers.
The women’s silhouettes reflect suave with effortless comfort. Draped scarf dresses with long fringing are accompanied by wrap dresses, paying homage to archival pieces. Delicate crochet in an array of greens makes an appearance on maxi dresses and crop tops with florals, celebrating the female form.
Silk suits were twinned with fringed bandeau tops and ribboned ornamentation. Cutout dresses and collared outerwear were matched with platform sandals and webbed bucket bags complete with leather straps.
The traditional Japanese kimono is interpreted in novel ways. The obi kimono belt is modernized for skirts and tops. Flared kimono sleeves give a contemporary edge to jackets.
The looks are replete with flower and plant motifs – from founder Kenzo Takada’s beloved peonies to the Japanese boke and bamboo forests. The Eiffel Tower makes a special appearance, inspired by ink-wash paintings. Dragonflies, an ancient Japanese symbol of resilience, pop up throughout the collection.
Fishing bags, a traditional Edo-period knapsack, is revamped as a backpack, and bags interpreted from furoshiki folding blend the traditional and contemporary.
Traditionally worn with the kimono, Jojo sandals, crafted by heritage artisan Gion Naito of Kyoto, represent a collection proud of its heritage and with a firm footing in the present.
The collection was a tribute to the brand’s founder, Kenzo Takada, whose influence stood out in the vibrant prints and eclectic mix of patterns. Nigo’s vision for the brand is clear which is to revere its rich legacy while transgressing the boundaries of modern fashion.
The collection’s integration of Eastern and Western elements, ingenious use of fabrics, and diverse casting culminated in a show that was both visually outstanding and culturally significant. Kenzo has once again proved that a brand can progress with time while staying true to its roots.
