Kenzo returned to the womenswear runway after eight years, and it was interesting. The brand headquarters at 18 rue Vivienne set the stage for Nigo’s latest womenswear collection, where vibrant modernity collided with the 17th-century mansion.
Disheveled models entered with unkempt hair and lingerie falling out – literally! Perhaps, a modern version of Alice who fell down the rabbit hole? To be honest, rabbits were the main protagonists of this collection.
Drawing inspiration from his own personal wardrobe, Nigo redefined tailoring with a relaxed sensibility. Double-breasted tuxedo blazers exuded a structured elegance, balanced by silk bomber jackets and cozy felted duffle hoodies. Japanese denim took on a playful edge with pink stitching, while breezy, diaphanous balloon pants hinted at lingerie-like delicacy.
This softness extended to floral motifs lifted from archival Kenzo swimsuits, further enhancing the collection’s feminine energy. Accessories reinforced this ethos, with bags featuring shirred handles and delicate ribbon bows adding a touch of youthful charm.
A sense of fun permeated the collection through two mischievous rabbit motifs, “Lucky Me” in pink and “Lucky You” in pastel blue, originally drawn by Kenzo Takada in 1979. These whimsical figures appeared on vests, hoodies with rabbit-ear details, and even sling-back bunny slippers.
Meticulous craftsmanship anchored the collection’s exuberance. Crystal pavé belt buckles referenced streetwear’s opulent edge, hand-carved mother-of-pearl buttons elevated everyday pieces, and tailored jacket linings adhered to the standards of Savile Row.
Playing in the background was an eclectic mix of ’90s hip-hop, punk, and disco, an audacious soundtrack befitting a collection rooted in bold contrasts and unexpected whimsy.
By merging technical precision with uninhibited joy, Nigo delivered a collection that honored Kenzo’s past while embracing a bold, free-spirited future.
