LF Says: ★★★★★
A getaway suffused with grandeur. As India’s first Raffles completed three years last week, Raffles Udaipur has, in this short time, set the benchmark for luxury hospitality, not just in Rajasthan, but arguably in the country. The luxury brand, whose genesis lies about a century and a half ago in Singapore – but very much rooted in classic Victorian architecture, opened its first Indian outpost in the midst of the pandemic. Perhaps it is these testing times – the resort also took the better part of a decade to open – that has seen it successfully navigate the tricky tropes of Indian hospitality to become one of the must stay properties.
A sight for sore eyes
Of course, the Raffles standards are in place. It is an experience that begins right from the moment you arrive at the hotel – which is accessible only through a short journey by shikara-like zero-emissions boats (one of the multiple ways Raffles Udaipur ensures sustainability) over the scenic Udai Sagar Lake. Of course, if you have booked it, one of the hotel’s luxurious fleet of BMWs will pick you up from the not-too-distant Maharana Pratap Airport. And drop you by the pick-up point for your overwater odyssey.
If the weather is pleasant, I would recommend the slower shikara, which helps you take in the multi-hued splendours of the Udai Sagar, one of the largest lakes here, and a paradise for birders with an abundance of avian creatures flocking around. The gentle slopes of the Aravalis provide alluring frames – almost as if designed for Instagram.
Even more arresting is the approach to the hotel. What was a speck from the jetty gradually transforms into a grand mansion. Not without design. Built as an English country house – reminiscent of Blenheim Palace or Highclere Castle (yes, the setting for Downton Abbey), the property spreads out over 21 acres on its own island. On disembarking, a Palladian style façade welcomes guests, still only viewed framed by arches. Architect Clive Gray of Randolph Gray Design in Bangkok perhaps intended the design to impress, which you get ample opportunities to do so, along the drive in a buggy past grand gardens and impressive topiaries.
The building itself is roughly U-shaped, with the base serving as the focal block, and where most of the public spaces of the hotel are located. Take a moment to absorb the grandeur of the lobby. Not only is it imposing in its pearl grey monochrome setting, it is dotted with massive wall art, murals of an indeterminate European classic style, further accentuating the feeling of – you might say tranquil grandeur!
The eye then travels to a central marble table dotted with suitable bric-a-brac (predominantly candlesticks and enamelled boxes, and of course a coffee table style Raffles book open suitably to an artwork of ‘Raffles world’). Surrounding it are sets of low seating – deep backed sofas, lounge chairs, low tables – transporting the guest instantly in effect to an English manor. Both the floor and ceiling are heavily ornamental.
Completing the look are a pair of grand staircases framing a massive bunch of carnations – in multiple shades of pink. In a destination chock full of palaces, this is a countryside manor the likes of which are unmatched here. An intelligent design move!
Step outside, and a vision in white is achieved through white façades, interspersed with matching columns. A spark of colour comes from the traditionally attired doormen. Look beyond and there are a plethora of gardens to explore. Varying nomenclatures – Great Park, Parterre, English Garden, Compass Garden, Barefoot Garden and Clouds – also mean each is differently laid out. If manicured gardens are your thing, budget adequate time. Indeed, a walk to even just some of the gardens should ensure that you complete your 10k steps for the day! Having a stunning lake all around only enhances the ethereal pleasure of being here. Did you spot the two Egyptian obelisks?
All the regular features of a luxury resort are present of course. There is a mid-sized pool – and the ground floor rooms have pools of their own. There is a well-equipped in-house 12,000 square foot spa with six treatment rooms and a range of treatments to indulge yourself in. Do not miss the ‘pink room’ where you sip your post treatment beverage. It is actually one of the best spots to revel in and relax.
Given that the city centre is almost 15 kilometres away, you might be tempted to stay within the property, so there are a range of activities to keep you engaged – if you get time off from the zillion Insta-worthy locations that the property offers. There is lots of visual art and craft, from a guardian sphinx to multiple elements of Mughal and Rajput architecture, often blending. Note the generous use of chattris in an otherwise mid-19th century exterior.
Thalis, tomes & drinks
And then there are the dining options. The main restaurant is The Dining Room, which comprises of Sawai Kitchen, Rasoi, The Cookery School, and the Raffles Patisserie (yet another signature for the brand). A significant difference is the absence of the buffet, explains Executive Chef, Avijit Deb Sharma. Sawai Kitchen highlights the ‘lost cuisines’ of Rajasthan, including a thali spread, he points out. Do note the ‘jewellery box’ at the Patisserie which offers pastries and other treats, doubling as an all-day diner. And watch out for the Charlie that comes around with delectable finger food at breakfast.
One of Raffles’ touchpoints, the spacious Writer’s Bar, is right behind the lobby, spread on two levels. Well, the upper level is just a slim corridor. Beautifully framed by shelves stacked by thousands of books, it is dotted with matching, pretty eclectic seating options. A bar occupies one end of the lower level, offering a range of options to imbibe, including cocktails and a Bili Hu coffee counter, all worth spending time to appreciate. The only disappointment – to me – of the entire resort experience – was a closer perusal of the books revealed that almost overwhelmingly, these were largely ‘airport reads’. Not quite analogous to the brand perhaps?
The other touchpoint of the brand, The Long Bar, is just as distinctive. European wood and leather, with back-lit lighting highlighting engravings by local artisans, the Bar offers fine Indian spirits, single malts, local brews, besides the signature Udaipur Sling, made with cilantro extract, homemade bitter and a unique blend of spices reminiscent of the famed laal maas. Classic cocktails, champagne and caviar come with the territory too! If you yearn for east Asian cuisine during your stay, this is the venue too, with an extensive evening menu.
Also on the anvil is Harvest, a curated dining experience, which will make ample use of the greens grown within the hotel premises, bringing the farm to table concept alive for guests.
Suite story
A significant highlight for me are the rooms. The 84 rooms and 17 suites are spread over two winding, almost parallel, wings. My Manor Suite, on the southern arm, was magnificent in its opulence and aesthetics. A huge living room, with every amenity possible – plush sofas and chairs in white and cream upholstery, matching curtains, a huge work desk, brass lamps, lovely stationery, fruit basket, multiple side tables and shelves, soft pastel silver-grey walls, an artsy, massive mini bar fronted by thikri inlay work…the list goes on.
Wonderful as they were, my vision was constantly attracted to the view outside through the enormous French windows. A panoramic view of the lake, shimmering in the soft light of the morning, is speckled with birds of many hues. Flamingos are a particular favourite and the hotel has chosen to display their replicas in various poses all across the hotel. At dusk, the view is equally enchanting, golden flecks merging into bright ochres and brilliant purples, slowly transforming into a pitch darkness as the hour advances – only the distant twinkling of lights across the lake or in the skies above adding lustre. Even the sweet cadence of the lapping waters made the entire experience sublime.
Not to overlook, the gigantic washrooms are a delight, especially the huge freestanding bath, and black and white chevron patterned floor. The shower has a lake view though!
An additional feature of the suite added to its charm – a personal butler. The guitar playing Prashant made the stay even more engaging, not just making sure I was extremely well attended to, but also pointing to all the attributes of the hotels that I might have otherwise missed.
As the first Raffles hotel in India, Raffles Udaipur has provided invaluable insights into establishing and operating the brand in a new market, points out General Manager, Rajesh Namby. “The acceptability and brand awareness have grown significantly, with guests appreciating the blend of colonial charm and contemporary luxury.” Indeed, Raffles has a new property in Jaipur now.
Besides the extensive lawns and gardens, the resort also offers an extensive banqueting space, ideal for events. The hotel is already quite popular, not just being in huge demand during the peak season, but also being in demand during the monsoon season. It is also expanding capacity, building an extension on the entrance jetty side, expected to be ready soon.
So come in and say khamma ghani to the hotel. Walking away will be the hard part.
LF Says: ★★★★★
Coordinates: Guest Lakeshore, Arrival, Udaipur, Panwari, Rajasthan, India
