In a quite sudden and shocking announcement, Gucci has ended its partnership with designer Sabato de Sarno, who had joined Gucci two years ago. Coming just a few weeks before the brand’s Fall-Winter 2025 collection presentation on February 25, the announcement implies that this is a swift decision that has been instantly executed.
“The Fall-Winter ’25 fashion show in Milan on February 25 will be presented by the Gucci design office…The new Artistic Direction will be announced in due time,” says the official statement by Kering.
Kering, which also owns Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and others, along with Gucci, posted a grim revenue in the third quarter of 2024, which was down by 15%. Gucci, in particular, had reported a revenue of €1.6 billion, down by 26%.
Additionally, Kering recently sold 100% of The Mall Luxury Outlets entities held by Kering to Simon, the US real estate investment trust. The official statement explained by saying – “For Kering, the divestment of this non-core asset will generate net proceeds of approximately €350 million.”
As trouble looms for Kering, the group had hoped for a revival of Gucci under Mr. de Sarno. And while the designer did take many initiatives, including introducing the new Gucci Ancora shade, while also reducing the maximalist effect of Alessandro Michele (the brand’s designer previous to Mr. de Sarno), the consumers haven’t seemed to jump on the wagon.
Mr. de Sarno cleansed the palate, introducing more defined collection with high craftmanship, aiming to make the brand a refreshed version of the Tom Ford era.
With yet another fashion seat to fill, we can only see who will come to helm Gucci now, while Mr. de Sarno’s next move will be followed very carefully as well. Gucci’s conundrum stays.
