Sabato De Sarno brings Gucci back to its home turf, only a month after presenting his inaugural cruise show, on the final day of Milan Fashion Week. Since his appointment as the creative director, he has defied expectations with upgraded classics, and now we get to see him dial up the comfort and laid-back aesthetic this season.
As declared by the man himself, this collection is all about encounters – incontri – of the city and beach. The precision of the cuts, the silhouettes, and the spark of color define the energies of those who celebrate life and gather at beaches and museums. “Ultimately, it speaks about freedom,” says Mr. Sarno.
As the guests fanned away the wafting heat at Triennale Milano, Milan, and models came down the glass-encased spiral staircase, traipsing down the historic museum’s runway lined with dated books and drawings, Mr. Sarno’s vision becomes clear. What comes to mind at first glance is his use of eye-catching hues and loud patterns. There is a play between vibrant and bold colors and soft colors.
Gucci goes from city to beach in several transitional looks, allowing one the freedom to ditch the city and embrace the seas at one’s will. Gucci’s exceptional tailoring and impeccable construction was the star of the show as usual, showcased in long coats in wool or bonded leather, featuring high vertical pockets and exaggerated openings at the back.
Formal wear comes in two shapes: sharp three-button single-breasted suits that have a high break line and pressed sleeves to preserve the silhouette, and matching pants that have a buttoned tab to hold the ankle. The other, with straight yet relaxed double-breasted jackets, was cut from light poplin.
Utility zip-up jackets are short, and boxy leather jackets with embossed leather contrast collars that imitate corduroy are matched with print-heavy buttoned shirts.
Coming to more preppy, relaxed silhouettes, the shirts are not your classic bowling shirts. These borrow the three-pockets from the utility world with, some trimmed with beaded fringe, others with applique-embroidered flowers. All of them carry infinity prints, with surfers, dolphins, hibiscus flowers, and banana leaves, making them coastal must-haves.
Further, we are greeted by long-sleeve polo shirts handknitted with an intarsia of paillettes and jackets in tasty sorbet tints like green and yellow, with sashaying beaded fringes that move like waves.
True to the Gucci way, the accessories were a treat. Celebrating the 71st anniversary of the Horsebit, the iconic motif is showcased in Gucci’s latest shoe designs, including loafers and boots with sculptural, pointed toes. The collection also features slim belts with a double-ended snap hook closure, mirroring the Horsebit’s distinctive shape.
The recently introduced Cub3D sneaker’s molded sole has interlocking Gs with a 3D effect, appearing also on the molded sole of scuba slip-ons. Bracelets and necklaces are in segments like bamboo. Sunglasses, whether worn or carried backward, carry a carefree attitude in their chunky frames, held by a vibrant Gucci strap.
Several bags drew their inspiration from archival Gucci luggage—Valigeria—crafted from brushed leather that’s bonded with the Gucci logo, with detachable pieces. The Gucci B bag comes in regular size as well as a mini version. Padded leather bags with a pillow-like touch come with magnetic closures. Lastly, the collection had Crossbody bags donning a flap closure, fastened with the signature Gucci snap hook hardware, and a functional bucket bag, cut from gaberdine canvas twill, swathed in pigment for a modern finish.
Mr. Sarno elucidates, “I feel free when there is no distance between my words and my thoughts, between my actions and my heart. I hope that people feel free and welcomed in my clothes.”
