The Amalgamation of Nature & Concrete – Experiencing Desaru Coast

A small town which is not so small, Malaysia’s Desaru has much to offer with art, culture and lesser-known excursions.

Imagine, if you could get about 4000 acres of peaceful space, 17 kms of pristine coastline, and all supplemented by delicious food and mindful activities. That’s Desaru.

Desaru Coast Malaysia

This small coastal town in Malaysia, with the South China Sea flowing alongside, has been garnering much attention in the past few years. Especially as the post-Covid traveller seeks balance in their life as well as travel, Desaru is gaining popularity as the perfect destination to rejuvenate and spend quality time with family and nature.

Desaru is no village, though. Instead, it’s a very well-planned city with strong infrastructure and luxury resorts. Developed by the government to increase tourism in this sunny, southern spot in the state of Johor, Desaru seems like a concrete utopia, as the countryside gives way to a city-like development.

We saw cheeky ‘spectacled’ monkeys, majestic herons and nervous snails – all coexisting peacefully.

While you could always choose to lounge and sleep in the rooms or villas at Anantara Desaru Coast Resort, the destination offers more than it lets on.

Cruising through the mangroves

I have a certain affinity for cruises and boat rides. The allure of doing nothing physically as the watercraft glides on water, while observing your pure surroundings, has no match. JungleWalla, a local Desaru tours company, picked us up from our hotel, taking us on a 20 minute drive to reach the Sungai Lebam river. Once we were settled on the boat, along with the humongous picnic basket that Anantara had kindly provided for us, our guides Udin and Fitri took us through the emerald green mangrove forest.

Sungai Lebam mangrove forest
A close-up of the Sungai Lebam mangrove forest. Image courtesy: Soumya Jain Agarwal

Mangrove forests are said to be nature’s lungs, as they consume some of the largest amounts of carbon dioxide in our environment, and throw out oxygen instead for us deplorable humans. Their ability to thrive in low-oxygen environments make them crucial for our survival. Apart from that, their horizontal root system not only helps them to thrive, but also protect humanity from tsunamis and erosion by becoming a natural barrier.

Of course, they are a beautiful, inviting habitat for many species. We saw cheeky ‘spectacled’ monkeys, majestic herons and nervous snails – all coexisting peacefully. Udin would stop and show us the seedlings, roots and branches of mangrove trees, and explain the entire lifecycle of the mangrove tree. And, as no trip is complete without the quintessential Instagram picture. Fitir rowed us towards a cozy spot within the forest to provide the perfect backdrop to our family picture.

As the boat sliced back to the jetty, we munched on the sandwiches, cheese, and watermelon and olive cocktail sticks, and detoxed our screen-tired eyes with the verdure around us. Udin and Fitir continued to throw facts at us about the mangroves, informing us about how the Johor government is making provisions to preserve and protect the mangrove forests.

JungleWalla also provides bird watching and beach life discovery tours, at the Anantara hotel as well as outside, both of which are must-do if you enjoy learning about fauna.

Creature comforts

Back at your villa at Anantara Desaru Coast, after all these natural pursuits, you might not want to do anything. That’s when you’ll really enjoy the in-villa barbeque experience. Turmeric, the in-house restaurant, had already asked about our preferences for the barbeque. On the day of, I could see a flurry of activity in our backyard patio, as chairs were moved, a dining table was set up with a crisp, white tablecloth, cutlery for each course, and of course, the barbeque.

All the produce tasted fresh. You would get that crunch in the salad. Cutlery was being changed swiftly – the service was impeccable.

We had a beautifully spread-out dinner that night, with peonies and candlelight, as our servers roasted the salmon and chicken for us. Accompanying it were lemon herb, peppercorn and garlic sauces. The sides and salad portions were as big as the main course. So we happily indulged in the green papaya salad, Greek salad, coleslaw, mac & cheese (I have two kids, forgive me), corn on cob and roasted potatoes as well.

While Fazly manned the barbeque, we were catered to by Ravin, Kamrul and Hassan, making sure we were not missing anything. The meats were cooked to perfection and tasted divine with the sauces. All the produce tasted fresh. You would get that crunch in the salad. Cutlery was being changed swiftly – the service was impeccable. By the time we reached the Tiramisu and chocolate brownie, we were spent but not defeated. Managing a few more sinful spoons, we called an end to a very satisfying day.

Anantara Spa Desaru Coast Malaysia
Anantara Spa at Anantara Desaru Coast, Malaysia

Spas are always a wonderful way to relax and soothe your bones and mind. Anantara Spa ensures that as well. Having its own separate entrance and block, the Spa at Anantara Desaru Coast is enhanced with verdant greenery outside, and antique Asian collectibles inside. They have an extensive spa menu, which includes a variety of massages, Malaysian rituals and journeys. From the Kopi Scrub & Boreh Spice treatment, to Coconut & Mint Scrub, to the Seashell Therapy, the menu was tempting. And if you have spent time at Desaru’s 45-hole golf ground, then Anantara Spa’s Golf Remedial Massage is ideal to try.

Starting with a lemongrass tea, I was given the customary health consultation form to list down my concerns. I was also given the choice to choose my own music from their menu!

Anantara Spa Desaru Coast Malaysia
Anantara Spa at Anantara Desaru Coast, Malaysia

My large spa suite was like a small standalone villa. Decorated aesthetically in neutrals with wood and stone, you genuinely relax once inside, with your chosen music playing in the backdrop.

Farida, my therapist, was tender and effective. She started my Anantara Signature Massage with a gentle foot ritual, slowly helping me slip into oblivion. Even during my spa treatment, Farida proved to be quite instinctive. She could discern my discomfort without my saying, quietly adjusting her strokes accordingly. As I relaxed in the end with my distinctive tasting longan tea, I was ready to go back and face my high-octane children again.

Stay engaged

If you have a squabble of children with you, or are a boisterous group looking for something to while your time with, there is much that Anantara Desaru Coast can keep you occupied with, while giving a lesson in local culture as well.

Instead of buying batik designs (which, of course, you can do as well), we made our own Batik paintings at the hotel. We learnt how to mix the special paints, color the canvas and merge different shades. It was a joyful, creative activity, which provided my son with a lesson into different kinds of arts in different nations.

Anantaa Desaru coast
The beach at Anantara Desaru Coast

Our mornings would begin with Dong Stick, a series of slow exercises that you do with a bamboo stick. Conducted on the beach, next to waves of South China Sea, it was an exhilarating start to the day, as your mind relaxes with the cool breeze, only to feel powered up after the exercises.

We made our own lip scrub at the Anantara Spa! The workshop, conducted by Usman, was light and hilarious, with a lot of ladle mixing involved. We even took a little sample of what we made.

Kids Club anantara desaru coast
The Kids Club at Anantara Desaru Coast, Malaysia

The well-appointed Kids Club at Anantara Desaru Coast will keep your children busy, while the local Desaru Fruit Farm can be a quick getaway when you need to stretch your legs. I left the Fruit Farm bundled with spicy dried guavas and the beautiful roselle flower tea. The nearby Adventure Waterpark will prove to be a boon for your kids.

Anantara Desaru Coast offers multiple other options to stay engaged. From nature walks, jet skiing and kayaking, to terrarium making classes, the hotel has a full calendar you can make use of.

kayaking at anantara desaru coast

According to Tourism Malaysia, the Asian country has seen a surge in visitors since COVID-19 started receding in 2022. Between 2023 and 2024, this small island nation with warm-hearted people, saw an increase of 31.8% in visitor arrivals. As it continues to increase, perhaps it’s time to walk the lesser-known path, and explore Desaru.

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