September 20, 2022: Set on the Hudson River at Pier 76, the Tory Burch Spring/Summer 2023 show took place at sunset with a celestial mobile suspended over the runway. The Spring/Summer 2023 collection is defined by opposing instincts: to experiment freely and to pare everything back.
Focus on the body continues in sleek, minimalist jersey separates, feather-weight knits, and sporty cropped trousers. Several looks feature jersey bandeaux ruched over the waist for a soft waist definition. In contrast, others wrap gently around the body, from narrow midi skirts in stretch satin to luxurious Indian silk dresses.
In terms of fabrics, the collection features materials that are transparent and opaque, reflective and matte, grand and humble. Exquisite Indian silk, Italian wool, lamé, silk taffeta, lace, and silk gazar with cotton T-shirts, denim, and sporty viscose finish the collection to perfection.
“The innovation of luxurious fabrics designed to move with the body — superfine knits, techno satin, weightless jerseys. An exploration of form in wrapped silhouettes, sporty separates and the opposition of sculptural tailoring over translucent layers. All lightened by a touch of strangeness, the shock of handbags in acid colors, and surrealist shoes with trompe l’oeil toe rings and ‘inverted’ heels,” said Ms. Burch about the collection. “This collection is personal and intuitive, drawing on my memories of the ’90s when I moved to New York. I wanted to look at my signatures with a fresh perspective, reflecting what feels modern now,” she further explains.
The collection sees graphic silver sequins and mirror work in different sizes — all hand-done at Orange International India in India. The season’s palette is intuitive and slightly strange, mixing cool neutrals, optic white, icy pastels, and high-shine metallics. In the absence of bold print and pattern, the colours emphasise material, texture, and silhouette.
In terms of accessories, the collection features sharp, geometric, and primarily flat, reimagining what everyday shoes can look like. Squared-off soles, doubled-up slingbacks, and cut-out Double T logos are subtle yet transformative updates. A standout mule plays at Surrealism with a trompe l’oeil “toe ring”. The inverted 'gravity heel’ is a cushion-like platform above — not below — the sole.
Adding to the collection is a small, square shoulder bag with a cut-out silver Double T logo and an envelope-inspired interior. In several styles, the logo reveals contrasting colours underneath. The bag’s pared-back shapes allow for a range of bold colours and surface treatments, like crinkled patent, embossed croc, contrast top-stitching, and neon embossed snake.
