De Bethune’s DB Kind of Grande Complication is a triumph of innovation and tradition. Before exploring the masterpiece envisioned by Master Watchmaker and De Bethune’s founder, Denis Flageollet, let’s first look at their tribute to color.
Following the triumph of their inaugural experiment, the DB28T Kind of Blue timepiece, De Bethune has unveiled an iconic creation, the DB28XS Purple Rain. The unusual dial is a result of the art of thermal oxidation of metals, where De Bethune explores all the color nuances resulting from the heat released by the chemical reactions of heated titanium.
This remarkable watch is driven by the manual-winding caliber DB2005. It is a limited edition watch, with only 25 pieces available. Furthermore, the De Bethune DB28XS Purple Rain is complemented by an extra-supple alligator leather strap and a black canvas strap featuring a purple grade 5 titanium buckle.
Next in line is The DB Kind of Grande Complication. Inspired by the elegance of double-sided grand complication models, Mr. Flageollet, a master watchmaker, pursued his vision of meticulous design and development at De Bethune, until it finally came to fruition.
Mr. Flageollet, says, “My watchmakers are like top-level athletes. To ensure that they don’t fail in the final stretch and run the risk of compromising the integrity of the timepiece, they demonstrate extraordinary, imperturbable mental strength, along with extreme concentration and almost motionless posture.”
The resulting timepiece boasts an array of complications: perpetual calendar, spherical moon phase indication, retrograde age of the Moon, leap years, ultra-light tourbillon, jumping seconds, power reserve indicator, and a double display of hours and minutes, all housed within a dual-sided rotating case.
The rounded design of its classically inspired case, drawing from classic aesthetics, cleverly conceals the intricate integration of eight different horological complications into a single caliber. Rethinking the calibre as a functional whole so that each complication interacts in perfect harmony is a technical feat that would be inconceivable without total technical mastery of all the innovations and patents involved in the Manufacture’s 32 calibres.
The blued mirror-polished titanium of the classical dial reveals multiple shimmering effects of the De Bethune Blue with its unique character. The hand-decorated sky is hand-fitted with small white gold pins depicting the stars and adorned with Milky Way patterns produced by laser-beam micro-milling and gilded with 24-carat gold leaf.
Incorporating a rotation system with floating lugs ensures seamless movement, with over 60 meticulously crafted components facilitating precise positioning of the dial on either side.
When turned on the contemporary side, Calibre DB2529’s refined structure is showcased, along with indicators for power reserve and the age of the Moon, presented through a retrograde silver-toned indicator. The juxtaposition of the rapid 36,000 vph pace of the De Bethune 30″ tourbillon with the serene movement of the mirror-polished steel hand marking seconds creates a captivating contrast. This orchestration, facilitated by 63 titanium components weighing a mere 0.18 g collectively, sets a noble cadence for the passage of time.
The mirror-polished deltoid bridge supports the asymmetry of the gear trains, featuring subtle decorations, pushed to extremes on even the slimmest components. Each one, through its function and finishing, contributes to the calibre’s understated aesthetic and technical silence.
The DB Kind of Grande Complication is now available, priced at $475,000, with only five pieces produced annually.
