One perennial fact is that fashion is cyclical. It constantly draws inspiration from the past with refreshing twists. To be fair, nothing is ever wholly new. Rather, in the world of fashion, it’s just an element from the past that has been revived with new iterations. This then explains why some trends, silhouettes and styles seem fairly familiar or have made a comeback. Such is the case with the revival of vintage denim and even denim accessories.
Bella Hadid in head-to-toe denim.
Denim and denim accessories are far from new. The classic has existed for years now, and each season, the fabric gets an upgrade. We’ve seen a prevalence of this fabric, from jackets to skinny jeans, boot cuts and even wide-legged denim. Denim has reigned supreme and continues to do so. Not only has the head-to-toe denim trend re-emerged, but statement-making accessories too are taking over the scene. “Denim became increasingly popular in the late 1800s. Once it became a popular material for clothing, the next step was it being repurposed into making accessories. The denim accessories trend in 2023 is inspired by the past but is amalgamated with existing colours, cuts, and prints that are more currently trending,” said Shaan Shah, CMO, of Freakins India, a Mumbai-based denim brand.
Singers Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake’s version of the Canadian Tuxedo.
Denim is here to stay
A fabric said to originate in France, the most recognisable jeans – made from indigo-dyed denim with pockets and sturdy riveting suitable for workwear – was patented in 1873 by Jacob Davis, a tailor, and Levi Strauss, owner of a wholesale fabric house in San Francisco. It has been no looking back since then. From a workwear staple to Hollywood’s cowboy representation of jeans, denims took off.
In the 1950s, however, jeans came to be associated with rebellious, anti-establishment youth. It’s prominence in the closets of rock’n’roll stars, hippies, anti-war protesters and feminists came to symbolise ‘counterculture’. Jeans became cool. Two decades later, fashion brands started crafting their own versions.
Blumarine Spring Summer 2023.
Today, luxury brands are accepting denim into their hallways. Denim has been dominating the runway for a while now, and has shown that it’s not going away.
Large volumes, vintage aesthetics, and simple and gender-fluid styling walked down the runway in the Spring-Summer 2023 collections, revisiting some of the most beloved 1990s and 2000s denim trends. The Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows were all about denim in non-traditional ways. From denim maxi skirts at the Burberry show, oversized shirts at Blumarine, and denim-patterned mesh at Diesel, you’ll have your pick from plenty of versatile styling options.
Burberry Spring Summer 2023.
Bell-legged flares paired with a raffia corset at Jacquemus, distressed oversized cargo pants were a key piece from Givenchy, and at Versace Donatella who gave jeans the acid-washed and neon-painted treatment. We can attribute this shift to the casual way people are dressing in their post-lockdown lives.
While your humble pair of basic skinny jeans is one of the key autumn/winter denim trends for 2023, a majority of skinny jeans spotted on the runways had some kind of modern twist, so look out for unusual textures or embellishments to get a more trend-led piece. Yet another trend is low-rise denims, courtesy the 2000s.
Dior Men’s Denim Capsule Collection.
The most recent addition is Dior’s first denim capsule for men. Dior menswear designer Kim Jones launched a capsule denim collection which he described as ‘the last modern invention for men.’ Featuring casual and sophisticated pieces with a bevy of work-inspired staples, the new collection aims to cater to the younger audience. “This collection is composed of casual and sophisticated pieces, which are the perfect match for a men’s wardrobe,” said Mr. Jones in a statement. “I remember when I was young, I went through a phase where I wore Vans, jeans and a Stüssy T-shirt every day. Jeans are one of those basics that will stay with you for life. This is probably the last modern invention for men. It’s something cultural.”
Reports suggest the global denim market will reach a value of $76.1 billion by 2026. Let’s admit it, denim looks have become a timeless staple in modern fashion, transcending generations and cultures. From jeans to jackets, shorts, shirts and skirts, denim has evolved over the years to include a variety of styles, washes, and cuts that cater to different tastes and preferences. And today, denim has become a versatile fabric that can be dressed up or down to suit various occasions and moods.
Emilio Pucci Spring Summer 2023.
The Spring Summer 24 runway further proves that the world of denim is not over. But it wasn’t the usual blue jean cuts that cropped up on the runways. Beyond the classic trousers and two-pieces, the shapes were reimagined, spanning red-carpet-ready ball gown skirts and corsets, back-pocket bra tops and draped jackets. This season, denim was reimagined from the most elegant to the most casual, with a fresh and often genderless approach.
Head-to-Toe Denim
Mugler Fall-Winter 2023-24.
Canadian Tuxedos (denim on denim) made a reappearance on the runway. Denim tops were paired with jeans and denim skirts to recreate the Canadian tuxedo, which had already returned to the runways in the spring-summer 2023 collections. After decades of going in and out of style, denim-on-denim has gone beyond classic trucker jackets and 5-pocket jeans.
Zimmerman Fall-Winter 2023-24.
Structural jackets are being used as a means to add drama to the looks. An angular, waist-nipping cut and oversized sleeves are the defining characteristics of this denim trend – creating an hourglass silhouette that pairs perfectly with the popular baggy and low-rise bottoms of the moment. Cropped jackets and oversized jackets are becoming popular choices to pair with denims, much like the piece spotted in the Fall-Winter 2023 collection by Mugler.
Ahluwalia Fall-Winter 2023-24.
After the recent Spring Summer 24 runway reports, it’s clear that crop tops and corsets paired with denim skirts are a highlight too. Ralph Lauren’s iconic look of a corset paired with an exaggerated skirt and a trail is a definite winner.
Textures and prints
Dion Lee Spring Summer 2024.
Denim is also getting refashioned to incorporate more exciting and unusual textures. Denim is getting funkier – think embellished tops and jackets, and graphic prints on the fabrics. Speaking of Ralph Lauren, the designer gave denim a luxe appeal with embroidery and applique work for Spring Summer 2024.
Stella McCartney placed large mirrors on her denims for SS24, while Versace stole the spotlight with its washed denim jacket sprinkled with pearl and metal embroidery. Even Valentino, the high altar of fashion, used its Altorilievo technique to create a jeans cut into stunning baroque foliage.
Jason Wu Spring Summer 2024.
Add some edge to your ensemble through these new accents to spruce up the vintage style. Team it with a matching top, or opt for a different wash. Although full monochromatic denim looks are in, for some, they may appear intimidating. So stay safe by teaming these embellished beauties with white.
Roberto Cavalli is a go-to label when it comes to modernising timeless silhouettes with unexpected prints, but the brand added a tropical touch when it embellished its not-so-blue denims with feathers. Again, great to pair with a monochrome or solid colored crochet blouse.
Roberto Cavalli Spring Summer 2024.
A few other ways to style the trend is through layering denim pieces to create subversive looks – think the classic denim shirt or mixing washes in one garment, as done well by Marine Serre and Ahluwalia.
So whether you’re a maximalist or minimalist, eclectic or classic, the revival of this ‘new trend’ serves up something for everyone.
