In the realm of fashion, trends are transient, and notions of style constantly evolve. For some time, the ethos of quiet luxury has prevailed, with its emphasis on understated elegance and subtlety. However, as we navigate through the yet again changing landscape of the fashion industry, it becomes evident that a seismic shift is underway. After the recently concluded fashion weeks, quiet luxury finds itself overshadowed by a burgeoning wave of boldness and extravagance.
The evolution of quiet luxury
Quiet luxury is nothing new; it’s a style constant that has continuously evolved while louder, more pronounced trends take center stage. Before the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, the fashion world thrived in a bustling ecosystem of creativity, trends, and global connectivity. Fashion epitomized many things. Quiet luxury was one of them. Some designers emphasized understated elegance and impeccable craftsmanship. They celebrated clean lines, luxurious fabrics, meticulous tailoring and muted tones that exuded effortless sophistication, demonstrating that opulence need not be all about logo mania. Logo-free, minimalist fashion pieces were considered ultra-chic, an early iteration of the so-called quiet luxury trend.
Top header: A look from Marni’s Spring Summer 2024 collection | Above: Schiaparelli’s Spring Summer 2024 collection featured an intricately crafted Lobster Skirt.
The onset of the COVID-19 pandemic brought about a certain shift in the fashion landscape. The demand for ostentatious displays of wealth reduced. With social gatherings and events put on hold, there was little opportunity for individuals to showcase their sartorial splendor. Classic, sustainable, muted pieces found a match with the somber mood of the world. Comfort and practicality took precedence over opulence, leading to a surge in loungewear and athleisure.
In fact, in their quest to adapt, some designers transformed quiet luxury into what is being described as boring luxury. Boring luxury is characterized by a lack of creativity and originality, relying solely on logos and status symbols to convey a sense of prestige. It is the antithesis of quiet luxury, eschewing subtlety and refinement in favor of conspicuous consumption. While logos have always been synonymous with luxury, their omnipresence in recent collections had reached saturation point. What was once a subtle nod to brand identity became an overt declaration of status.
In the post-Covid era, the fashion industry has found itself at a crossroad. There is desire to showcase wealth through clothing, again. Fashion is increasingly becoming louder, more opulent. The idea that more is more is flourishing. While the desire for comfort remains, there is a yearning to a return to glamour and extravagance. Consumers are wanting more than just material possessions; they crave authenticity, sustainability, and meaning, combined with a definite indication towards their personality. As people re-find themselves and create new auras around them in a thriving, happier, definitely back-to-normal post-pandemic world, they want their fashion to celebrate that as well.
A look from Balmain’s Spring Summer 2024 collection.
As a response, designers have reimagined quiet luxury for a new era. Today, many are infusing their collections with vibrant hues, bold patterns, and playful embellishments, in an attempt to inject a sense of joy and optimism into their designs.
In 2023, most designers were still being true to quiet luxury, but the 2024 runway proved that designers are pivoting back towards opulence and glamour, thus seeing the subtle death of quiet luxury.
The decline of quiet luxury
Quiet luxury is now giving way to a bold and expressive aesthetic, one that celebrates individuality and flamboyance. This shift, exemplified by recent collections, marks the decline of quiet luxury in the industry I believe. “Fashion is an ever-evolving industry, and there are multiple trends emerging every season. Everything from sarees to accessories, with a chic and sexy way to show power dressing are making a comeback too,” opines fashion designer Sameer Madan, who crafts bold collections under his label.
A creation from Genes by Lecoanet & Hemant
While quiet luxury champions sophistication and subtlety, its counterpart, loud luxury, revolves around making a statement. Recognizable labels like Moschino, Balenciaga, and Gucci thrive on bold logos, experimental designs, and vibrant colours, aiming to spark conversations. Rather than adhering to the restrained elegance of previous seasons, these brands embraced a more flamboyant approach, replacing subtlety in favour of statement-making pieces that demand attention.
Indo-French designers, Didier Lecoanet and Hemant Sagar, believe, “Quiet luxury is now being replaced by a new era of fashion. The growing influence of streetwear and casual dressing has challenged the dominance of formal, quiet luxury. Consumers are embracing more relaxed, comfortable styles that blur the lines between luxury and everyday wear, leading to a redefinition of what constitutes luxury in today’s fashion landscape.” The duo, who have always had a playful twist in their collections, are of the opinion that the younger demographics are gravitating towards fashion that allows them to be bold, experimental and expressive. “From vibrant color palettes and eclectic patterns to exaggerated silhouettes and avant-garde designs, the new era of fashion celebrates individuality and fearlessness. It’s about making a statement, breaking boundaries, and embracing the unexpected.”
Early in the year 2024, designers and celebrities started to revolt against minimalism’s limitations and are seeking a return to the extravagant and the extraordinary. The comeback of maximalism was evident with the boom of the dopamine trend, which was visible even during the fashion weeks.
A look from Germanier’s Spring Summer 2024 collection.
Runways are becoming colorful displays with clashing colors, patterns, and textures that are a diverse blend. Designers are pushing people to express themselves through clothes that draw attention and are supporting a daring attitude to personal style.
Additionally, the use of logos and branding has become increasingly prominent in Fall Winter 2024 collections, signaling a departure from the discreet luxury favored in previous years. Brands like Louis Vuitton and Fendi created new iterations of their logos, and prominently featured them on everything, from handbags to outerwear, transforming their products into bold status symbols rather than timeless investment pieces. This shift towards conspicuous consumption, yet again, reflects a broader cultural shift towards instant gratification.
What’s after quiet luxury?
Spotted on the Spring Summer 2024 runway was Schiaparelli’s skirt flanked by a supersized, crimped lobster on the runway (in a nod to the iconic Lobster Dress worn by Wallis Simpson). Rick Owens’ pronounced shoulders and sky-high capes, Louis Vuitton’s Women’s Fall Winter 2024 embellished jackets and voluminous balloon skirts, and creations by Marni and Balmain made the new concept clear.
Rabanne’s Spring Summer 2024 collection was dripping with metallic accents.
Balmain’s Spring Summer 2024 show was effectively an explosion of roses, polka dots, patent leather, latex and jewels. Marni too, for Spring Summer 2024, opted for Marie Antoinette volumes covered in a floral storm of botanical decoupage.
Steering away from quiet luxury was Rabanne’s Spring Summer 2024 collection, which was dripping in metallic fringes and contemporary versions of Spartan warrior clothing. Finally, Rick Owens took maximalism to new heights with structural ensembles that championed volume. Quiet luxury certainly seems to have worn off.
The menswear ramp was no different. Sequins, metallics, and glitter are here to stay according to the FW 2024 runways – of course, in the realm of a more sophisticated maximalism preferred by most men.
Rick Owens played with volumes for his Spring Summer 2024 collection.
Dolce & Gabbana highlighted a maximalist attitude with embroidered sequins, shimmery beading, animal prints, exaggerated vintage neckpieces, and florals on shoes. There was a subtle sheen of a glitter-woven suit on the Fendi runway. Designers presented bold, glamourous looks and pared-back, minimalistic styles alike. And when it comes to colour trends, red was everywhere. The bright, bold hue has made its way to menswear.
In Indian fashion too, the couture language has shifted from lighter, sleeker wedding lehengas, back to voluminous, bright creations.
In an age dominated by social media and instant gratification, subtlety often struggles to command attention amidst the cacophony of bold statements and flashy displays. As a result, designers and brands are compelled to adapt to this new reality, catering to the insatiable appetite for spectacle and sensation.
A look from Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall Winter 2024 collection for men.
To conclude, Indian designer Mrunalini Rao, says, “More and more people have been embracing vintage-inspired pieces and heirloom pieces. The overall trajectory of the fashion industry seems to be moving away from quiet luxury towards a more ostentatious and overt form of opulence.” She further adds, “As consumers continue to prioritize instant gratification and conspicuous consumption, designers are responding by creating collections that cater to these desires, forsaking subtlety in favor of spectacle. While the decline of quiet luxury may mark the end of an era, it also signals the dawn of a new chapter in the ever-evolving landscape of fashion.”
