LF Says: ★★★.5
Tourist season has officially begun in India. Heading to a coastal town is almost like a cultural ritual in the country. And this influx of visitors definitely begins with Goa. Apart from its pristine waters and billowing palm trees – the allure of Goa lies in its versatility, catering to every kind of traveller.
Located in a palatial, restored Portuguese villa, spread across an expansive indoor and outdoor space, this spot features artworks in abundance, glittering lamps littered across the ceiling, and walls worked with texture.
Similarly, a plethora of flavours and delicacies are out there to explore in Goa with a new eatery popping up every now and then. The state has witnessed quite a change in its culinary landscape over the last few years. The region has an experimentative palate – crafting the most unique experiences. You could go from savouring a five-course Italian meal on a rustic farm to knocking back feni cocktails in a vintage bar – all in a single day. This wave of new restaurants continues to flood the sunshine state.
But there’s one village in North Goa that holds a different kind of charm – a village going through a cosmopolitan energy transformation. There’s a different effect in Assagao now. On my yearly pilgrimage to the state this year in March, I saw a slew of new restaurants opening in Assagao alone.
An example of this is the newly opened modern European restaurant, Mystras, from the house of the pan-Asian Miss Nora in Delhi.
The first glimpse
While Assagao presents a laidback and chic vibe, Mystras brings forth the feel of balmy European countries. Located in a palatial, restored Portuguese villa, spread across an expansive indoor and outdoor space, this spot features artworks in abundance, glittering lamps littered across the ceiling, and walls worked with texture.
A rich play of blues, whites and browns greets you as you enter the place. However, the entrance may feel like you’re entering another Goa-based colonial restaurant-villa. As you lead yourself to the interior, your eyes will be drawn to a Pegasus (horse with wings) hanging from the glass ceiling in the courtyard bar – said to be made from upcycled materials. Sloped roof interiors layered with red bricks, warm lighting, high ceilings, long fans, and vintage-style switches give it an old-world charm.
Mostly, I was charmed by the al fresco dining arrangement. The walls were accessorised with blue and white ceramic wall plates, inspired by the streets of Sicily. The centrepiece here is a white European water fountain. I went a day before Valentine’s Day, on Galentine’s Day, with my girlfriends, so obviously, the al-fresco dining served as the perfect spot for all the fun and talking.
If you have the time and inclination, Mystras houses a retail shop as well, which offers designer ware from fashion brand Shivan & Narresh, jewellery brand OutHouse, and home décor brand Beyond Designs.
Beginning with the cocktails, the drinks are undoubtedly the pièce de résistance. A retired whisky sipper, I took a risk and went for the Indri single malt-based cocktail, Mystras. And it was worth it!
Pure cocktail pleasures
With a dynamic culinary landscape brewing in the state, restaurants here know they can’t survive just by offering stunning views of the sea and beaches. The menu needs to be intriguing and thoughtfully created, and the food equally delicious. At Mystras, the dining scene comes with a shot of finesse – and cuisine from around the world. A culinary journey through Europe is at your fingertips – from Italian cuisine to Spanish tapas and Mediterranean mezze to Pan-Asian comfort food.
Beginning with the cocktails, the drinks are undoubtedly the pièce de résistance. A retired whisky sipper, I took a risk and went for the Indri single malt-based cocktail, Mystras. And it was worth it! A smooth, velvety one, it had a full-mouthed feel with an undertone of luscious flavours. Sometimes citrusy, sometimes sweet with cherries and mint lemon juice, if you’re looking for some table theatrics along with your invigorating cocktail, this is the one to go for. Mystras was a great cocktail, and it looked just like something made for Instagram – presented on a wooden tray with a glass cloche. An eye-pleaser that delivers on the palate is how I would describe this.
Next, I moved to a gin and sparkling wine pairing – Pornstar Martini. Well, that’s quite a name and so was the drink! Coming in a coupe glass, passion fruit was the main star of the show in this cocktail with its heavy tropical flavours, while lime added a delightful citrus note to liven it up! The flavour is slightly sweet, while also being quite tart. It was really aromatic – you can smell its gorgeous tropical scent. And the slow Goan wind only added to the experience. I retired with the classic Old Fashioned – which tasted out to be incredibly well-balanced.
If there’s one thing that I wish I could simply take away from their bar menu, it would be their signature, Mystras cocktail. Fresh and fruity, with strong and rich whiskey notes, this cocktail is a home run when you’re out with your girlfriends. Thrillingly tasty, this cocktail is quite an addictive one.
Cherish those bites
Amidst stunning surroundings with an easy-going vibe, I was ready to be taken on a European culinary trail.
From the small plates section, I started with spicy edamame and trio crostini. Tried and true, edamame is hard not to nosh on whenever it’s on the table. This classic wok-fried version with chilli garlic sauce and sea salt was savoury and fulfilling. From Japan, my palate decided to move to Italy. One of my favourite appetisers, this trio of crostini included tomato pesto, mushroom ricotta and guacamole. I was floored by how great each combination was on its own.
Their tapas menu could appeal to good-time drinkers who seek small inspired dishes with big flavours that arouse the senses. Sizzling dishes of garlicky gambas are a mainstay of the tapa repertoire. Cooked with olive oil and dried hot chilli, the smoky hints of paprika and a touch of sweetness in this Mystras-cooked prawn gambas is a good start to any course. What you will love most is how the prawns were juicy and tender with a crunchy pop while the layered garlic flavours keep alive the raw edge of the dish, while still maintaining its spicy bite.
Intrigued by their Japanese pizza section, I went for the avocado and truffle pizza. As somebody who inclines towards crispy thin crusts, this was way thinner than I expected.
I have a soft corner for baos and Mystras attended it well. The menu has bao dishes made with chicken, mushrooms and pork. Their spiced pork ones were definitely parcels of pillowy goodness – that’s how I like to describe the baos. The fluffy buns were packed full of sweet and sticky pork belly glazed with hoisin sauce with a crunchy, roasted peanut sprinkle and velvety smooth mayo. Definitely recommend ordering this dish from their menu.
The pan-Asian dishes continued for that night and it was time to give their Miss Nora dragon roll, a chef special preparation, a try. The roll had everything that I usually prefer in my sushi orders – prawn tempura, salmon, tuna and avocado. Personally, I enjoyed the prawn one that presented a nice crunch which meshes well with the chewiness of the rice. Although the avocado sushi roll had relatively mild flavours, its earthy taste didn't go well with the sweet, spicy and sour tastes attributed by the rest of the dish and orders.
Intrigued by their Japanese pizza section, I went for the avocado and truffle pizza. As somebody who inclines towards crispy thin crusts, this was way thinner than I expected. The pizza came with salsa verde (green salsa) and toppings included sundried tomatoes, edamame and truffle. However, for a change, the toppings presented an earthy and nuanced flavour. A long thin crust slice with some melty cheese is all that matters to true pizza connoisseurs. It might be questioned why I ordered a pizza with avocado, but in my defence, the fresh, earthy green cream from the avocado went really well with the tomato and cheese.
For travellers, Goa is a culinary destination that cannot be missed, with so many pop-ups, guest shifts and takeovers becoming common.
Before calling it a night, already buzzed from the cocktails and food, I called for dessert. While I was keen on trying the chef’s special classic tiramisu and creme brulee, it was way past the restaurant’s last order time. My meal couldn’t be completed with a sweet ending.
For travellers, Goa is a culinary destination that cannot be missed, with so many pop-ups, guest shifts and takeovers becoming common. You can head to Mystras if you're looking for an eye-catching and aesthetic restaurant that gives you a quick European escapade.
LF Says: ★★★.5
