One of the most prized coloured gems, ruby has been adored for centuries across cultures. The July birthstone, with its mystical origins and scarlet colour, has been an object of fascination for millennia. Rubies in fascinating red hues, embodying passion, desire and romance, have been a staple of jewellery. The name ruby was derived from the Latin word ruber, meaning red. A variety of the mineral corundum, ruby is befittingly crowned as the ‘king of gemstones.’
According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), “ruby retained its importance with the birth of the western world and became one of the most sought-after gems of European royalty and the upper classes. Many medieval Europeans wore rubies to guarantee health, wealth, wisdom, and success in love.”
The growing demand for rubies has prompted miners to seek out rubies from regions such as Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Kenya, Tanzania and Madagascar. Rubies are often heat treated to remove purplish coloration, leaving a purer red. The process can also remove “silk” (minute needle-like inclusions) that can cause a gem to appear lighter in tone and be more opaque, notes GIA.
Star rubies, quite rare and precious, are highly sought-after by jewellers and collectors. The finest colour of the birthstone for July is a deep red with a hint of purple, called “pigeon’s blood.” The famed Mogok mines in Burma are home to some of the world’s best rubies in ‘pigeon blood’ colour. Having said that, not all gems mined here are always of the highest quality, gem dealers caution.
Red is a colour that resonates deeply with fine jewellery brand Syna. It embodies a sense of auspiciousness and radiates positivity, say the New Jersey-based founders Dharmesh and Namrata Kothari. Syna offers jewels in rich crimson hues of ruby, the radiant birthstone of July.
“We have a particular fondness for rubies — those rare and stunning gems that seem to carry a piece of the earth’s magic within them. When we incorporate rubies as accents in our pieces, it’s like adding a signature flourish, a touch of vibrant warmth that makes each design come alive. In a way, it’s akin to a chef adding a perfect seasoning to a dish — it transforms the entire experience. Our love for red and rubies isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about creating something that feels both timeless and wonderfully unique,” the design duo explains.
Designers and brands are making a compelling case for fine and high jewellery embellished with rubies. Special cuts, interesting settings and eye-catching designs have encouraged jewellery enthusiasts to embrace this precious gem.
Designer Jacquie Aiche has always been drawn to stones that open the heart and Rubies are all about love. “Strongly connected to the heart chakra, Rubies aren’t just beautiful, they’re also known to attract divine love, heighten intimacy and inspire inner healing,” she says. Ms. Aiche believes that rubies add a romantic energy to your layers. “You’ll find marquise rubies in our new lock and key collection, baguette rubies in our new bar ring and I couldn’t resist bringing the classic beauty of round rubies to our Sophia collection.”
For Yvonne Léon, a marquise signet ring, with its slender, pointed oval shape, evokes a timeless elegance reminiscent of whispered secrets and ancient legacies. “Worn with grace, it becomes a symbol of lineage and personal history, a jewel that captures the poetry of past and present,” adds the jewellery designer. She loves rubies for their “captivating, fiery red colour that symbolises passion, love and vitality.” Their rarity and historical significance evoke a sense of timeless beauty and exclusivity, making each gem feel unique and precious, she notes. Which explains why she has been focusing on ruby gems in several of her designs. “I love using round cuts of rubies, usually on pave pieces like the marquise signet ring, or as the focal gemstone on our solitaire necklaces and bracelets,” adds Ms. Léon.
From minimalist pendants to statement pieces, a pop of red through ruby gems can brighten and warm up any outfit, be it a casual one or a glamorous gown.
Los-Angeles based jewellery publicist Darlyn-Feythe Valentine believes that “as one of the rarer found coloured stones, it makes sense that the gem is also a symbol of love, passion, power, and luck (all four of which is rare to find in real life).” Some great red-carpet representation comes from Rihanna, points out the founder of L.Woods PR. She cities the Barbadian singer, actress and entrepreneur’s recent outing in a diamond and ruby choker necklace made in 18k gold with custom-cut rubies by Delhi-based fashion designer Manish Malhotra as epic. Lately, the actress has been seen donning pieces by Indian designers.
“While India and its designers place a high-importance on its usage, due to its rarity, type, and inconsistent colour, there are not many designers who use rubies in substantial sizes. However, when it’s used, the design is usually breath-taking alongside diamonds and white gold. One of my favourite high jewellery brands has created gorgeous examples of how power and beauty combine to create elegance — Van Cleef & Arpels Rubis Flamboyant Transformable necklace and ring is one such spectacular piece. Featuring a whopping 55 plus carats of rubies with the necklace’s centre stone being 25.76 carats alone. All of this has been paired with 18 smaller rubies and diamonds set in white gold. Which, as a LA-based publicist, I believe would be a stunner on the red carpet,” adds Ms. Valentine.
And what if one doesn’t have a need for 55 carat rubies, and wished to lean into something more every day or for a dinner party? “There are other options,” says the publicist. “I would highly suggest Florida-based brand Stoned Fine Jewelry’s forbidden fruit ruby ring. Forty-one rubies create a red apple being eaten by a diamond encrusted serpent (retails for $12,500). Next on my list would be the ruby and diamond half hoop huggies from LA-based brand Alexandra Jules (retails for $3,500). Great for an everyday use to be paired with other earrings. All in all, rubies, while rare, and eye-catching can be designed or used for an everyday use and pop of colour to your jewellery collection. I like to call it functional beauty,” she adds.
What kind of jewels styles do you prefer? Here are some ideas for you to explore. Selim Mouzannar’s vintage Burmese ruby ring is a dreamy statement, while Simone Ng’s Tattoo high jewellery Key to Life ring takes glam up by several notches. This Simone Jewels’ ring features a certified unheated red star ruby, rubies and diamonds set in 18k white and rose gold.
So if we have you convinced, go through this edit of statement and daily wearables that you would love to wear.
Featured image: A Bvlgari ruby necklace from 2021
