Summertime temperatures have been hitting records highs, but our wine tastings haven’t slowed down. We’ve been invited to sample new wines, meet winemakers and gain a deeper knowledge of thousands of varieties of wines that are available.
While we continue to love a glass of crisp and icy rose wine, even into early autumn, the craze for grilling and barbecuing meats, fish and vegetables is heating up. Red wines have a slight advantage over white and rose wines because red wines are the perfect foil for the charcoal flavor, or char, that comes with anything cooked on a grill.
With the help of Washington State Wine, one of several wine trade organizations that promotes 80 different wine varieties from 1,060 wineries and its 400 grape growers in this northwestern state, I was ready to taste a variety of its red wines served with grilled foods. Many wine professionals are suggesting, as am I, that it’s okay to do a quick pre-chill of your bottle of red in the fridge for up to an hour before uncorking.
But first, here’s why these wines have become so recognizable among wine drinkers and wine collectors. The first grape vine was planted in Washington State in 1825, but it wasn’t until the 1960s that the state’s red wines began to be recognized by international wine critics. Wine growing pioneers planted Cabernet Sauvignon grapes which now represent over a quarter of the wine production, followed by Syrah and other varieties. Washington is now the second largest wine producing state in the U.S. and recently implemented a statewide sustainability certification for wine grapes, called Sustainable WA, to guide the wine industry’s environmentally sound, socially equitable and economic goals.
Chateau Ste. Michelle, founded in 1954, is the undisputed pioneer of premier cru Washington State wines. The Canoe Ridge 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is made from grapes grown on river soil that is 10,000 years old. The complexity of this wine is perfect with grilled meats which bring out the wine’s rich, red fruit jam flavors, ending with a smooth finish.
Spring Valley Vineyard’s 2019 Syrah is dedicated to local cabaret-vaudeville singer Nina Lee from the Walla Walla Valley. This wine is superbly balanced and made from a grape variety, Syrah, that is equated with medium bodied wines which are not overpowering (think Rhone Valley in France), with notes of blackberry, black pepper and mint. Excellent with grilled vegetables like peppers and zucchini.
Mark Ryan’s Dead Horse Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 was immensely satisfying with grilled jumbo shrimp. Aromatic notes of blackberry, wet stone, tobacco and spices with flavors of dark fruit infused with licorice and cocoa were not overpowering, but subtle. The tannins and mild acidity give amazing structure to this wine from sip to swallow.
While on the subject of red wines, I was fortunate to meet and sample wines with several winemakers passing through New York City. From Argentina, by way of Chile, gifted winemaker Cristobal Undurraga has put an exceptional spin on Dona Paula wines grown in the Uco Valley where the wine growing action is in full swing. The climate is such that there are no pests or bugs so wine growers can grow essentially organically on rocky soil. The Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah wines from Dona Paula have such a light touch and a lingering finish, reflecting the trend towards lighter red wines in a region dominated by heavy red wines.
Italy’s successful marketing blitz of its Chianti red wines (the bottles were often decorated with a basket) in the mid-1950s created an iconic wine variety in the world of wine. The Chianti region in Tuscany is still thriving thanks to Cantine Melini, an historical winery founded there in 1705. The soil can be rocky or sandy, with or without bits of clay, and all the wines are made with Sangiovese grapes grown on their properties. Winemaker Alessandro Zanette took me through a library tasting of Poderi Melini wines dating back to 1969. Aromas of rosemary, forest mushrooms and florals were elegantly intertwined with flavors of cherry, spice, licorice root, each wine with a refreshing acidity and pleasant tannic texture.
Each of these exciting wine tasting experiences reminded me to avoid stereotyping wines and wine pairings. Part of the fun of wine tasting is stepping outside the box to learn about climate and nature effect on grapes and the wine they make.
