LF Review: ★★★★
Tansen, one of the nine gems in Mughal emperor Akbar’s court, was known for his exceptional musical compositions. Quite uniquely for a dining establishment, Mian Tansen is the inspiration behind one of the newest restaurants in Hyderabad’s burgeoning modern culinary scene.
A meal at Tansen is an experience – that visually stimulates with its wow interiors and food to match. True to its inspiration, the best part about Tansen is their daily live Indian classical music performances.
Décor detail
The restaurant, that actually started in Necklace Road a few years ago, has been reimagined in this new space. Decked up in hues of beige, gold and cream tones, the huge stunning marble inlay work on the walls is eye-catching. “The unique aspect of the décor of this 150-cover restaurant that spans close to 12,000 square feet is a meandering water body in the center of the space. We were clear we wanted this aspect instead of just adding more tables as the ambience was equally important to us,” explains Neeraj Roy, General Manager, Tansen.
The flowing water adds a soothing rhythm to the air. The walls have imagery of fire, accentuating the shades of gold, making you feel like you are in the majestic elegance of the Mughal courts. Tansen created Raag Malhar, which, when he sang, had the capacity to induce rain. He is also associated with Raag Deepak, which can cause fire and light lamps. This interplay of water and fire is depicted beautifully in this stunning space.
Many of the walls have musical notes embellished on them as well. “The vision is to expand Tansen into a pan India brand and as a next step we plan to have outlets in Bengaluru, Delhi, and Mumbai, and globally in Dubai and London in the long term. The brand has been getting a fantastic response in Hyderabad and we have had lots of enquiries from different parts of India. We are very excited to take this avatar of Tansen and even refine it further in other cities,” says Amar Ohri, Executive Director, Ohri’s Group.
Food files
We start the meal with ‘Saare Gul’, a welcome drink that has a base of rose, Indian spices, honey and a hint of basil. Served in a small goblet, akin to a shot, this cold drink whets your appetite for an extensive meal. Every table is sent an assortment of chutneys – beetroot, pineapple, Afghan carrot, smoked bell pepper, and mint, along with crips that you can munch on while the food makes its way to your table.
From the starters, you must sample the Paan Patta Chaat, a take on the popular Palak Patta Chaat, that uses betel leaves. Topped with chutney, beetroot and carrot juliennes, pomegranate, sev and more, it packs a punch of flavour.
The Lajawab Paneer Bharwan Tikki is exceptionally soft. I am told they source the paneer from a quality vendor. Another must try is the Avocado Quinoa Golgappa, an innovative take on the street food favourite Pani Puri. A burst of flavour and taste, it is served with cranberry and mint waters. Executive Chef, Gagan Deep Singh, explains, “We serve North West frontier cuisine, with dishes from Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Lucknow, and Delhi that are true to its origins. Our kulchas are not stuffed inside but it is topped up and our signature one has smoked cheese and sundried tomatoes with wild mushrooms that is a favourite.”
Flavour fix
The menu has been designed keeping authentic flavours and quality ingredients in mind. Though it’s a familiar menu, each dish has been executed perfectly. The soups are hearty. The Murgh Badami Shorba, for instance, hits the right notes with the combination of chicken stock, almond and earthy spices. The Makai aur Kumbh ka Shorba mixes sweet corn and mushroom with onion and cream for a soup that is a great way to start the meal.
The Lahori Paneer Tikka, which has cottage cheese stuffed with khoya and dry nuts and marinated in Indian spices and yoghurt, is a great option. The Basil Fish Tikka, where the fish is marinated with basil, yoghurt and spices, is another winner.
The main course has several interesting choices, including the seasonal special Sarson ka Saag (made with fresh mustard leaves). The Dal Gosht is a unique dish here, where perfectly slow cooked mutton and yellow lentils are infused with aromatic herbs and spices. Mop these up with the Makki ki Roti, Sofiyani Roti and Chilli Cheese Kulcha for a full experience.
The Hyderabad special Pathar ka Gosht – tender meat marinated in spaces and grilled perfectly over hot stones – is also available here. Even the rice dishes – the biryanis especially – are full of flavour and served with house made saalan and burani raita.
Sweet notes
For desserts, the beetroot halwa is an innovative take on the gajar halwa. The jalebis here are small, crisp, and served with a dollop of creamy rabdi. My vote however goes to the delectable, delicately sweetened Thandai and Pistachio Tres Leches. It is a rich creamy dessert that you cannot stop with one spoon, with flavours that are comforting and never overwhelming.
The restaurant, despite its spread-out size, has a warm welcoming feeling, courtesy of its lovely staff. As I bid goodbye, I hear the notes of the ghazal ‘Tum Ko Dekha To Yeh Khayal Aaya’, originally sung by Jagjit Singh and Chitra Singh, and cannot help but think that the experience at Tansen has been similar – full of life and vibrancy and one that kept my stomach and mood happy.
LF Review: ★★★★
Coordinates: Sy No. 332 & 333, Prestige Skytech, Puppalaguda, Gandipeta, Financial District, Nanakramguda, Hyderabad, Telangana, India
Reservations: Are a must as the space is sold out.
