Making a watch dial takes about three weeks when you’re doing it the old way, sculpting precious metal by hand, painting microscopic details with a single-hair brush, and firing enamel at 800°C multiple times until the colors look right. Vacheron Constantin’s latest release proves some watchmakers still think this approach makes sense, even when machines could do it faster.
Two new limited-edition timepieces have joined the Swiss manufacturer’s Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection, celebrating the Year of the Horse with hand-engraving, miniature painting, and grand feu enamelling. Available in 40mm cases of either 18K pink gold or 950 platinum, production runs to just 25 pieces in each metal.
These timepieces stand apart through the absence of traditional hands on the dial – much like its previous watches dedicated to the Chinese Zodiac – a deliberate design decision that allows artistry to take center stage. Time is instead displayed through the manufacture Calibre 2460 G4, which operates with four discs arranged in apertures around the periphery: trailing hours and minutes appear at the top, while jumping day and date indicators are positioned below.
This hands-free configuration isn’t just aesthetic posturing. A self-winding movement measuring 31mm in diameter and 6.05mm thick contains 237 components and provides 40 hours of power reserve. Through the sapphire caseback, an open-worked oscillating weight formed from 22K yellow gold reveals itself, decorated with a polished Maltese Cross and guilloché motif. Finishing includes circular graining, Côtes de Genève, hand-bevelled bridges, and hand-chamfered jewel sinks, all confirmed by the Hallmark of Geneva engraved on one of the bridges.
A three-dimensional horse leaping over a large rock dominates the dial. Master engravers spend three days creating this figure, carving fine details like the horse’s mane and tail, then applying a hand-patinated finish to enhance texture and contours. Color nuances come through enamel miniature painting, building depth and dimension into the relief work.
Behind this figure sits a hand-painted enamel background that shifts from lighter tones in the center to darker shades at the edges. Artisans layer multi-colored gradient grand feu enamel and miniature-painted foliage using exceptionally fine brushes. After each layer, they fire the dial plate at temperatures exceeding 800°C, repeating the operation until colors achieve desired intensity. This background work alone requires two weeks. Even the colored backgrounds visible in the four time-display windows match enameled details on the dial.
In Chinese zodiac tradition, horses occupy the seventh position and will supersede the Snake when Lunar New Year arrives in February 2026. Multiple symbolic meanings attach to this animal in Chinese culture: vitality, elegance, loyalty, courage, and particularly good fortune and prosperity. For centuries, horses have maintained a prominent presence in Chinese art and cultural expression.
This release continues Vacheron Constantin’s second 12-year cycle dedicated to the Chinese zodiac, which began last year with the Year of the Snake.
Sandrine Donguy, Product & Innovation Director at Vacheron Constantin, said, “The twelve Chinese zodiac signs correspond to the twelve Earthly Branches which represents Ancient Chinese wisdom. The horse is the 7th sign of the zodiac and has held an important place in Chinese culture since ancient times, carrying very diverse symbolic meanings. Perhaps most importantly, it symbolises good fortune and prosperity, often serving as a mascot, especially during important occasions such as the Lunar New Year. The horse is also regarded as a symbol of strength and courage, particularly due to its role in ancient warfare, where warhorses were vital companions to soldiers, embodying determination and a fearless spirit.”
On the significance of Métiers d’Art creations for the brand, Ms. Donguy says “Vacheron Constantin’s approach to watchmaking has always been a synthesis of technicality and artistic beauty. The Métiers d’Art collection reflects our commitment to preserving and perpetuating traditional decorative crafts by encouraging their evolution as well as passing on the savoir-faire to future generations. Since our Maison was founded in 1755, we have developed and nurtured a deep savoir-faire in techniques such as engraving, enamelling, guillochage and jewellery.”
Pink gold editions come paired with brown alligator leather straps, while platinum versions feature blue alligator. With only 50 total pieces between both editions, these watches represent a calculated investment in craft traditions that predate the industrial revolution.
