Having been forced to cancel his fall couture show in Paris last month due to personal matters, Indian designer Gaurav Gupta took to showcasing his collection in a private showroom and over a video call on social media. This comes at a pivotal moment for Mr. Gupta after notably having been added to the Paris Couture schedule in January of last year. He has since garnered global acclaim from celebrities who have donned his creations, namely Beyoncé on-stage during her Renaissance World Tour, Mindy Kaling at the 2024 Met Gala, and Kelly Rowland at the Cannes Film Festival.
This new collection, Jyotirgamaya, has as its guiding muse the Sanskrit concept of the spiritual journey from darkness to light. Moored in Vedic philosophy and subsuming Egyptian mysticism, this phenomenon signifies the metamorphosis from unawareness to enlightenment, manifesting itself in a woven narrative where futurism and surrealism coalesce.
“I think, in a way, this collection reflects my own journey of self-discovery. The process of creating this collection has been a meditative experience, allowing me to delve into the realms of spirituality and a surreal world,” says Mr. Gupta when talking about his latest offering.
Mirroring the ancient philosophy, the ensembles gravitate from darkness to light, evident in the selection of hues, from moonstone ivory, sand, and bordeaux to black. Using metallics and monochrome, Gupta presented his signature intricate embellishments and sculptural shapes, but he has also incorporated balance, keeping his clientele in mind. “I wanted to make core pieces that are unique yet more wearable,” the designer said.
This practical sensibility was reflected in his more wearable pieces, like the black corseted mini dress with sculpted shoulders and waistline, the black peplum jacket with architecturally sculpted shoulders paired with the avant-garde sharara trousers, and the cast metal bust cropped jacket paired with black draped dhoti trousers.
“It’s hard to not have every look be dramatic and embroidered and beaded, but I’ve made a conscious effort the past three seasons in Paris to see clients and understand what they’re buying and wearing,” he told Vogue. “I’m seeing the lifestyle of the client; sometimes they need a gown or something very unique, but sometimes they need something else they can dress up or dress down.”
The pieces are rooted in tradition and replete with innovation, displaying corsetry, draping, and sculpting techniques. The maestro has embraced the ancient Aari embroidery technique, with its infinity loops and hooked needle, and Zari Zardosi embroidery, using metallic threads to impart luster to the finished piece.
The couturier’s signature sculpting art meanders throughout the creations. Intricate craftsmanship and deep symbolism are highlighted through contemporary silhouettes, depicted in a black reptilian glass-embroidered corseted saree gown with waistline draping, a moonstone ivory column gown with crystal embroidery and sculpted saree gown, and an architecturally sculpted wing gown in sand.
The truly iconic sculpted looks in Bordeaux, like the crystal erosion peplum gown and a corseted gown with a dramatic waist, were breathtaking in their construction and embellishment.
The journey translates into an exciting new dimension with the introduction of stunning artisanal jewelry, designed in antique gold and silver. The Chakra ear cuff, Infinity ear cuff, and Gaja ear cuff are the perfect pairings, and the Mudra ear cuff, Bahu Mudra ear cuff, and Chakra choker, crafted in brass, put forth the doyen’s prowess in offering exceptional craftsmanship.
“We are a brand that has always been about pushing the boundaries of couture through innovation and a deep respect for tradition,” the designer concluded.
