The year’s most highly anticipated collection was unveiled at the Gucci Hub in Milan. Despite Sabato De Sarno, the fashion giant’s new creative director, originally envisioning an open-air show in Milan’s historic Brera neighborhood, unforeseen weather complications necessitated a last-minute venue change.
However, much like the unpredictable weather, Mr. Sarno’s collection deviated from Gucci’s typical style of the last few years, breathing new life into the brand by reimagining archival pieces with a contemporary twist.
Drawing from his minimalist approach seen in his previous work at Dolce & Gabbana and, most recently, Valentino, Mr. Sarno infused his inspiration into every iconic piece, be it the Gucci Bamboo and Jackie bags or the Marina chain jewelry. The renowned model, Daria Werbowy, a close friend of the designer, elegantly showcased the 60s-inspired Marina chain on the runway.
Aptly named ‘Ancora,’ meaning ‘again’ in Italian, the designer is dedicated to rekindling Gucci’s allure in the hearts of people. For this, he seems to have taken a leaf from Tom Ford’s book.
For the 2024 collection, his distinctive incorporation of a deep red shade was striking. This rich color adorned embossed shorts and skirts, towering platform brogues, as well as handbags and accessories. Apart from that, the collection was cautiously bold. Boy shorts were quite up. Necklines were low. Flirtatious fringes skimmed on the legs and even shoes.
Silhouettes were crisp, clean and defined. There is glamour with just enough shine. Long coats and mid-sized blazers add sophisticated style. And there is not much to distract from the shape and color. Nothing that jumps out. It is, in short, a fresh collection, and a fresh start for Gucci. A collection that will find many, many takers, yet not groundbreaking. It’s inspired from archives, but with a contemporary configuration.
Mr. Sarno plans to reintroduce lesser-known pieces, infusing them with his contemporary vision. Some more intriguing facets of his artistic perception might be revealed in forthcoming collections. And we are waiting.
