British designer Sarah Burton fittingly picked Givenchy’s historic headquarters at Avenue George V to introduce her new, fresh perspective for the maison. Even more aptly, the much-anticipated debut collection by Ms. Burton was inspired by the fashion label’s 1950s origins.
A subtle yet powerful color palette dominated by black, white, and splashes of yellow defined a lineup that oscillated between sharp tailoring and fluid silhouettes.
Archival Givenchy prints from 1952 were heavily used in her pieces from the body out, with a focus on structure, movement, and proportion.
An exploration of contrasts enhanced the collection, as masculine techniques redefined a feminine silhouette, and classic couture elements were infused with modern edge.
Strong-shouldered jackets met cinched waists, while swaths of fabric transformed into sculptural, backless gowns. A standout moment came in the form of a surrealist dress constructed entirely from powder compacts.
Echoes of Hubert de Givenchy’s signature aesthetics ran throughout. Chantilly lace was slashed to micro lengths, elongating the figure, while 1950s-style foundation garments peeked through in conical shapes, pushing the boundaries of sensuality.
Dramatic balloon sleeves made a commanding appearance, reinforcing Ms. Burton’s vision of powerful femininity.
She also reinterpreted Givenchy’s signature knotted scarves, reimagining them in leather as statement pieces that wrapped around the neck or cinched the waist.
“I want to address everything about modern women. Strength, vulnerability, emotional intelligence, feeling powerful or very sexy. All of it,” Ms. Burton shared in her inaugural Givenchy runway show notes.
The collection’s couture-level detail extended to accessories. Footwear ranged from tulle-adorned heels to sleek latex designs, embodying both romance and rebellion.
The new Pinch and Facet bags seamlessly transitioned from day to evening, reinforcing Givenchy’s effortless sophistication.
Jewelry took on an opulent dimension, with pearls and crystals embellishing earrings, while a jewel-encrusted bodice underscored the notion of skin as the ultimate luxury.
Joining the brand six months ago, Ms. Burton’s debut for Givenchy was a study in refinement and reinvention. With a reverence for the house’s codes and a sharp eye for the future, she delivered a collection that honored tradition while carving out a distinct identity of her own.
