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The Dior Couture Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 collection portrays a plural image of free & powerful femininity

Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri defies conventions with a spectacle where sportswear meets haute couture.

The Olympic fever seems to have infected the entire city, and with LVMH being a lead sponsor, its brands can’t be untouched. Engulfed with the same spirit of the Summer Olympics, past and present, the Games reigned supreme in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s mind for Dior’s latest haute couture venture.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

“The arrival in Paris of the Games—the sacred embodiment of competition—incited Maria Grazia Chiuri to pay a fitting tribute to all athletes who, from antiquity to the present day, have overcome prejudice and obstacles to ensure a level playing field in sports contests,” comments the luxury house. The Dior Haute Couture AW 24-25 line springs to life against a backdrop of arduously won political freedom for women’s bodies. The likes of Jennifer Lopez, Jisoo Kim, Venus Williams, and Doja Cat formed a star-studded front row.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

Over the course of her eight-year stint at Dior, Ms. Chiuri has been a torchbearer for her work on freedom, as aptly demonstrated even by her RTW A/W 24/25 collection for Dior. We see a somewhat similar passion but all in a refreshed palette.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

Replete with historic influences, the offering was anchored to the present through sleek racer-style bodysuits and breathtaking all-in-ones studded with dripping crystals. Fringes, drapes, and pleats morph into tank tops, dresses, and pants, giving life to evanescent silhouettes inspired by ancient goddesses.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

Sportswear elements are proffered a couture makeover, the rib on T-shirts is abandoned for delicate grosgrain ribbon, and the jersey is wreathed with silk or metallic threads in multiple shades of gold. All-over embroidery enriches pieces such as gorgeous sports shirts and bathrobes adorned with mosaic mirrors, expressing the virtuoso and savoir-faire of the historic maison.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

Ms. Chiuri returns to the embrace of the garment she holds so dear, the peplum. The peplos, a design envisioned by Christian Dior himself in chiffon, were paired with racerback tank tops.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

Amongst the silks and gossamer fabrics was jersey. Employing a material not indigenous to the world of couture, Ms. Chiuri re-conceptualized it as a mesh, glistening in medallion shades like gold and silver. Other classical sporting cues came in the form of gladiator sandals as well as a bodysuit covered in gold feathers.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

Keeping in line with the emblazoned texts proclaiming “freedom” and “women” at the venue, her show is a fitting tribute to the late Faith Ringgold. The show was held at the Musée Rodin amidst reproductions of the work of American artist and feminist activist Ms. Ringgold. As Ms. Ringgold once said, “You can’t sit around and wait for somebody to say who you are. You need to write it, paint it, and do it,” the collection reflects the same spirit.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

The scenography of the show is saturated with paintings dreamed up by her for some of her most allegorical series: Freedom Woman Now and Woman Free Yourself, Windows of the Wedding #1: Woman, as well as recreations of her Civic Center L.A. Subway Commission that are a homage to the upcoming Olympic and Paralympic Games Paris 2024.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

Following two years of dialogue with Ms. Chiuri, sadly, Ms. Ringgold passed away just months ago, but renditions of her much-celebrated portrayal of female athletes were rendered by the artisans of Mumbai’s Chanakya ateliers and School of Craft, a long-time collaborator of the house.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25

For the creative director, this défilé presented a unique opportunity to amalgamate couture and sportswear with classicism, rebellion, collective energy, and, above all else, the political stature of the female body. She showcased her reverence for athletes throughout history, from the very first games in Athens right up to the present day. Thus, Ms. Chiuri’s latest collection references two periods, Ancient Greece, the birthplace of the Games, and the 1924 Summer Olympics in Paris, when female athletes, empowered by the spirit of the Industrial Revolution, demanded gender parity. One can perceive the inference explicitly in the Grecian silhouettes that graced the runway, draped chitons and column dresses, sweeping tunics that nodded to statuary, as well as pleated goddess dresses undulating from one shoulder.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2024-25 Scenography

The vibrant mosaics of female athletes complemented the monochrome ensembles on the runway. This Dior collection masterfully blends couture with sportswear, celebrating the history and spirit of female athletes.

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