LF Review: ★★★★★
If there are two cuisines that are diametrically opposite to each other, it’s Ethiopian and Swedish cuisines. One is piquant and spicy, and the other is balanced and hearty. Marcus DC, however, brings them together beautifully.
Newly opened this summer, Marcus DC is a culinary and visual feast. The ‘destination restaurant’, located in the greater Union Market neighbourhood (at Morrow Hotel), is helmed by Ethiopian-born Swedish-American celebrity chef, restaurateur and television personality Marcus Samuelsson.
Lively and buzzing with activity is not how I expected the place to be on a Thursday night, but I was surprised to see that all the tables were full, indicating its popularity. I immediately noticed the dim lighting around me, emitting as it was from elegant, low-hanging chandeliers. The huge bar, in contrast, looked bright and colourful. The colors and textures on the wall truly bring joy and warmth!
Walking around the space, I figured that one could freely saunter into the kitchen, and watch meals being prepared by the staff. The seafood section even had fish on display for customers to possibly pick and choose.
As I took my seat at the table, the server helpfully explained that Marcus DC’s unique menu blends modern American cooking with Swedish influences and Black culinary traditions from America’s capital city to Ethiopia and beyond. Executive Chef Anthony Jones had put together a tasting menu showcasing some of their best offerings.
I began with a tangy, citrusy zero-proof orange coloured cocktail called Meloncholy. Made with cantaloupe and pickle brine, it had a pleasing flavour and was just the thing I needed to kickstart my meal. This was followed by a delicious platter of blue cornbread, paired with some Singhalese yassa butter and berbere honey (which is mixed with Syrian aleppo peppers). The bread tasted sweet and buttery, somewhat like a muffin, and melted in my mouth almost as soon as I bit into it. Naturally sweet, I learnt that the bread is a favourite in the southern American cuisine.
Next up was the impressive Tanner Park Salad, made of candied gooseberries, stracciatella, passionfruit vinaigrette and toasted sunflower seeds. Another interesting mix of several flavours, the crunchy and creamy salad full of cheese had every bite tasting a shade different from the one before.
Mel’s Crab Rice, my main course, is a signature item at Marcus DC, and turned out be a phenomenal choice. Made of red rice, it had tomatoes, early summer mushroom and hot sauce pickled okra along with some French uni béarnaise sauce. This came with a delicious miso spiced cauliflower dish. The smoky flavoured cauliflower was heavenly, came as it did with a seasoning of mushroom escabeche, aji Amarillo and green onion.
While enjoying the rich variety of my meal, it became obvious to me how diverse the population of the capital city is, and its many immigrant influences, whether in terms of its food, language, stores or culture. The meal ended perfectly with a delightful seasonal cantaloupe sorbet, having granola and edible flowers. I realised I had eaten quite a bit of food by now, but thankfully, it didn’t really feel heavy.
On glancing through the menu, a few other items caught my eye, such as Addis Sol, a coffee infused lemonade, paying homage to roots and refreshment; and the Lower Bay Fluke Crudo, consisting of apple cucumber aguachile and crispy plantain.
Some of the desserts looked tempting too, such as the Corn Cremeux, having huckleberry compote, fried hoe cake, toasted corn and buttermilk ice cream; the Plum Almond Teff Cake, made of berbere pistachio brittle, cardamom ice cream and sorrel jus; and the Praline Coconut Cake, a vanilla rum cake with hazelnut praline cream, coconut jam, rum chantilly and strawberry shrub sorbet. But alas, there was only so much my stomach would allow!
Overall, the food and the ambience at Marcus DC was outstanding. It’s not a cakewalk trying to merge influences from two very varied cuisines, but Chef Samuelsson did it effortlessly! Needless to say, the presentation of the dishes was attractive and appealing, making me want to dig right in. It’s a place that beckons you to come back again.
LF Review: ★★★★★
Coordinates: 222 M St NE, Washington, District of Columbia, USA
