Each year, several prestigious brands present their craftsmanship, exceptional tailoring and avant garde design at the numerous couture shows that happen around the world. For Fall-Winter 2024 Haute Couture, we have seen extravagant feathers to sheer silhouettes from Schiaparelli, exaggerated sober bows by Chanel, and dramatic headgears and masks from Balenciaga. From lacey translucent fabrics to maximalist extravaganza, each maison either embraced its identity or paved the way for a new one.
Even India Couture Week tried to overcome traditions as it went beyond the usual Indian silhouettes to present another form of design that artfully shows what Indian designers, crafts and fabrics are capable of.
Two Indian designers, however, have reached Paris to showcase their collection – Rahul Mishra and Vaishali Shadangule. While Mr. Mishra presented his creations at Paris Haute Couture Week, Ms. Shadangule showcased hers – titled Satori – at Solum, by the Seine River, under Pont Alexandre III. She has held the title of being the first Indian female designer to present her collection in Paris for three years now.
Invited to the show on June 24, I was quite excited to see what would come from her oeuvre. The show started with oriental music, drums, flutes and sitar, invoking a meditative state, as two contemporary dancers initiated the walk with their rhythmic fairly like moves. Adorned in Ms. Shadangule’s couture pieces, the clothes were an extension of their body, almost like sprouts of energies, an extension of their expressions.
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Ms. Shadangule, renowned for her commitment to reviving traditional craftsmanship by blending India’s rich handloom heritage with mindful, nature-inspired designs, stayed true to her ethos in this collection as well. The collection featured deep indigo textiles, meticulously tailored to exude spiritual richness and fluid motion. Meanwhile, the models also wore jewelry partner Tanishq’s Enchanted Trail collection, where diamond-encrusted jewels symbolized hide and seek between rich Indian biodiversity and sunlight.
Many of the gowns paid homage to traditional Indian drapery, infused with an ethereal aesthetic, like the Infinity Coral Saree. Ms. Shadangule incorporated eclectic embellishments, including the ta’wiz, an amulet traditionally used for protection, made from surplus textiles sourced from various regions of India. This represented the unity of India’s diverse cultures. The Cobalt Blue Ta’wiz design features over 450 handmade ta’wiz hangings, created by two artisans over more than hundred hours.
An elated Revathi Kant, the Chief Design Officer at Titan Company Ltd (parent company of Tanishq) shared why they chose to collaborate with Ms. Shadangule: “Her ability to integrate traditional techniques with modern aesthetics makes her the ideal collaborator to highlight the essence of our exquisite pieces, allowing us to redefine luxury on a global scale.”
She shared how Tanishq‘s Enchanted Trail Collection is inspired by the twists and twirls of branches, the ebbs and flows of rivulets and natural streams, the enchanting colors of flowers, and the immersive greenery of foliage. The collection captures the very essence of nature and it was in complete harmony with the Satori collection. The Dainty Dances Diamond Necklace Set represented cascading vines, dewy petals, and sunshine capturing the essence of the majestic Sunderbans by setting 790 diamonds with malachite drops and adjustable rings at the back.
Even actress Radhika Apte, the showstopper for the couture presentation, affirmed that the two collections were a perfect match. When asked about what this collection means to her, Ms. Apte replied passionately about why it is important to present an Indian Couturier like Ms. Shadangule, by emphasizing that, “craftsmanship like this, has a history, has an energy, she [Ms. Shadangule] is in touch with thousands of families in India, families those who craft these delicate fabrics, even their histories comes along with the couture piece, and everything comes together, and this is something that I value, the stories behind each thread, this is what I believe Satori really is.”
As the collection streamed down the runway, the models came draped in shades of deep white, soft beige, and light grey. There are also teal, red and bold blue gowns. Natural silks and fine cottons were used to craft most of the collection, emphasising on the Zen philosophy of the collection. While the textures are smooth and flowing, silhouettes are mostly fluid to represent freedom, while some structured pieces embody moments of sudden realisation.
When we inquired Ms. Shadangule about her favorite piece, she looked at Ms. Apte, a veteran actor known for her roles that break molds, and said, “The piece worn by Radhika Apte.” The blue toned sea green gown, ‘Azure Radhika Coil Skirt And Corset’, has several delicate layers bonded with Ms. Shadangule’s signature cording technique, representing our own deeply nuanced reality. This piece took over two months with six artisans.
Ms. Shadangule, in her characteristic gentle tone, emphasized what Satori represents: “When you feel really different that you can’t describe the physical world. You feel different energies moving inside you, sometimes you feel energy bursting. When you see the white garment that is flowing outward, it seems like it is bursting with energy, and you feel the flow, the energy in each piece. Sometimes you feel all the chakras are moving round; even Radhika’s gown has Chakras.” The designer tries to cumulate our conscious and subconscious through the medium of fabric.
We are living in a world which has hundreds of weaving techniques. And India has one of the richest textile heritage in dyeing, weaving and surface embellishment, a craftsmanship dating back to 5000 years. This collection was a pivotal moment for Indian haute couture houses who are committed to preserving India’s national legacy, and showcasing it internationally.
