Ashth Prive, a Mumbai-based lab-grown diamond brand, has launched Udaya, a limited edition high-jewellery collection of 24 pieces inspired by Rani ki Vav, the 11th-century stepwell in Patan, Gujarat. Founded by Mukesh Shah, with Kaivan Shah serving as co-founder, the brand takes its name from the Sanskrit word “Ashtapailu,” referencing the eight facets of a diamond. Udaya, named after Queen Udayamati who commissioned the stepwell in memory of her husband King Bhimdev I of the Solanki dynasty, is the brand’s most technically intensive work to date.
Rani ki Vav was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014. Unlike most monuments of its era, it descends into the earth in seven layered tiers of carved stone lattices, sacred geometry, and sculpted figures rather than rising upward. Its architectural character, defined by rhythmic symmetry and intricate stone craft, forms the direct visual source for the collection.
Each of the 24 pieces features a rose-cut or portrait-cut lab-grown diamond ranging from 7 to 13 carats. Both cuts share a flat, transparent surface that allows light to pass through the stone rather than reflect off it. Artisans have hand-engraved architectural motifs from Rani ki Vav directly into the 14k gold beneath each diamond. As light moves through the stone, those engravings become visible, making the monument’s geometry legible within the jewel itself.
Patola weaving, a double ikat textile tradition also native to Patan, informs the structural logic of the collection. In Patola, both warp and weft threads are resist-dyed before weaving, producing patterns where any error is permanent, making it one of the most technically unforgiving textile disciplines in the world. Ashth translates that same principle of precision into the spacing, proportion, and repetition of the engravings across the collection. Both reference points, the stepwell and the weaving tradition, come from Patan.
Gold across the collection is finished using a specialised polishing technique that produces a subtle surface texture referencing aged stone. Each of the 24 designs is individually numbered in Gujarati script and comes IGI-certified and BIS hallmarked.
Kaivan Shah, co-founder of Ashth, said, “Design has always been at the heart of Ashth. With Udaya, we explored the idea of depth, inspired by the layered architecture of Rani ki Vav, combining portrait and rose-cut diamonds with hand-engraved gold surfaces to create jewellery where light reveals craftsmanship. The collection reflects our approach to luxury, thoughtful, architectural, and deeply rooted in storytelling, while remaining versatile enough to transition effortlessly between traditional attire and contemporary western silhouettes.”
India’s lab-grown diamond segment has grown considerably competitive, with brands like Limelight, Solitario, and Jewelbox operating at scale across the country. Ashth’s retail presence spans Mumbai, Kolkata, Goa, Raipur, and Surat, with its positioning generally sitting in the accessible luxury range. Udaya, however, operates at a different altitude with 24 uniquely numbered pieces, each built around a high-carat stone and a hand-engraving technique that cannot be mechanised or produced at volume.
Ashth operates under the philosophy Mine. Not Mined., a position on responsible sourcing that has moved from a differentiator to a category expectation as lab-grown adoption increases among urban Indian consumers.
Udaya is available through Ashth’s retail network across its five cities.
