LF Review: ★★★★.5
Driving into the newly opened IHCL’s Gateway Bekal, 70 km from Mangalore, lush frangipani and palm trees that line the paths, welcome us. So does a giant-sized wooden model of a traditional chundan vallam, or snake boat, sitting on the lawns! Under my feet, koi fish swim gracefully under the glass, as I step into the arresting lobby. With high ceilings and a vertical garden, the majestic space exhibits life-size straw and bamboo elephants all the way from Nagaland. Accompanying them are shining brass lamps, earthy teak wood furniture, ceiling lights covered with greenery and huge pillars.
My first impression of the Gateway Bekal is, truly, quite awe-inspiring. And so is that of Bekal, a small town in Kerala, which won my heart from the very first sight.
The resort, sprawling over 33 acres, offers 151 well-appointed guest rooms, cottages, suites and villas in a mix of traditional Kerala and modern design. A golf cart takes me down laterite stone paths, framed by hibiscus and chirping birds, to our cottage. A tiny gate and landscaped garden leads to our spacious room, with a four-poster bed, carved wardrobes, and a study that opens out to a balcony with wicker furniture and a view of the lawns and the backwaters. The large ensuite bathroom has a rain shower and a private jacuzzi. The vibe is peaceful and calm with only birdsong in the air.
Food talk
The diverse range of dining options at the resort cater to every palate. Earth Pavilion, the all-day diner, serves a variety of delectable meals with North Malabar specialities like Ayakura Porichathu, Konju Ghee Roast, Malabar Biriyani, Kakkaroti and Ottupola Appam. High Tide, the bar, has a vibrant atmosphere for unwinding with signature cocktails. A nice thoughtful touch is the unique high tea cart in the hotel lobby that serves local snacks along with favourite street food, tea and coffee.
Mornings at Gateway Bekal start with a huge breakfast spread at the Earth Pavilion. The buffet is furnished with a wide variety of choices, from creamy Birscher muesli to Indian staples like Upma and vadas, as well as a section with salads and dips and freshly baked breads. You can never go wrong with their ragi dosa, puri bhaji and the strong filter coffee.
One evening, we have a specially curated Moplah style dinner, served at the poolside with candle-lit tables under a star-spangled sky. Moplah cuisine, or Malabar cuisine, basically hails from the Malabar region of Kerala. Our attentive server, Soumithra, started our journey with beet root cutlet and Elayada with a pepper mushroom filling. We slowly graduated to a spicy pineapple rasam with ottupola appam bites and well-plated mains like Malabar Parota with piquant red pumpkin curry and a Malabar Biryani with a tangy beetroot pickle and papadum. We finish on a food high with a mildly sweet, velvety elaneer pudding with muskmelon and honey, and spicy Suleimani tea.
The most coveted meal for me, however, was the Sadya, which is usually served at lunch on a Banana leaf, with as many as 25 items! From rice and parapu (dal) to sambar, rasam, cabbage thoran, pickles, Avial and pappadums, a melange of flavours and textures blended to present a beautiful picture. Adding to the experience, Chef Dhanya Nair guided us on Sadya etiquette, where you crush the papaddum into the rice and parapu to start with. She serves us a traditional Trivandrum style Sadya that’s wholesome and divine, ending with traditional Kerala desserts of Ada Pradhaman with coconut milk and jaggery, and Paal Payasam.
For the soul
Bekal’s charms extend far beyond just the property. The hotel offers many activities and experiences for local exploration. Come evening, we head to the Valiyaparamba backwaters, which is fed by four large rivers, and glide across the emerald waters in a houseboat as the setting sun casts golden shadows on the water. The geography of the region is very unique. We pass fishermen casting nets, other houseboats, and islands fringed with coconut and areca palm trees, nesting egrets and herons, and sip on tea and banana fritters.
One of the most enjoyable experiences that the hotel offers is the Thonikadavu nature trail. The owner of the plantation, Rathnakaran Nair, walks us through a 100-acre forest that’s been in the family for generations, teeming with coconut palms, betel nut and rubber trees, pepper and wild herbs, and a variety of other flora. He shows us how to fashion hats and bags from Areca palm leaves, how they tap rubber and convert it into sheets, and we explore old water tunnels called Suranga which supply fresh spring water. It’s an enriching experience in nature, including a pool where we dip our feet for a natural foot pedicure. We have a picnic with bento boxes packed by Gateway Bekal, in a beautiful gazebo overlooking the green valley.
Bekal is a multi-cultural town with mosques, temples and churches where history echoes from every corner. We visit the gargantuan Malik Deenar mosque, one of the oldest mosques in India built in the Kerala Islamic style. Not far from there is the Shree Ananthapadmanabha Swamy Lake Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, situated in the middle of a small lake. It is believed to be the original seat of Ananthapadmanabha Swami (Padmanabhaswamy Temple) Thiruvananthapuram. The lake is gifted with perennial supply of pure spring water, and even has a resident crocodile!
On our last day in Bekal, we head to the famous Bekal Fort dating back to 1650AD, built out of local laterite stone, that stands on a promontory that looms over the Arabian Sea with its battlements, observation towers, water tanks, tunnels and solid walls. Built by a Hindu king, it was later an important part of Tipu Sultan’s military strategy. The most beautiful part of the fort is the panoramic views of the entire coast. Locals and tourists sit on the bastions, watching the waves crash onto the rocks as the setting sun paints everything a burnished orange.
At peace
Back at the hotel, I walk along the 1.5 km jogging track by the serene riverside, which passes the backwaters and mangroves. Iridescent kingfishers regard us with curiosity. I sit on my balcony, cocooned in my private space, and sketch what I see around me. Come sunset, the lobby is lit with lamps. My day ends with a traditional Mohiniyattam performance by two young girls.
Gateway Bekal blends tradition and modern hospitality, offering guests an unforgettable experience in this tranquil riverside retreat. Every member of the staff makes you feel special. For those looking for an offbeat holiday and luxury, this is the perfect place!
LF Review: ★★★★.5
Coordinates: Gateway Bekal, Malamkunnu, Post Bekal, Bekal, Kerala, India
