Louis Vuitton’s latest automata watch is a kinetic joy to witness!

Louis Vuitton Automata watch
The 42mm white-gold timepiece carries seven animated dial elements, 23 shades of champlevé enamel and over 250 hours of handwork, all driven by a proprietary in-house calibre.

Launched through La Fabrique du Temps, the brand’s dedicated fine watchmaking division based in Geneva, the Tambour Taiko Arty Automata is a 42mm white-gold watch with seven independently moving parts on its dial, all set in motion by a single button press at 8 o’clock.

Louis Vuitton Automata watch

Once activated, four Monogram Flowers spin in alternating directions, with each flower rotating in the opposite direction to its neighbour for a touch of natural chaos, a candy heart rocks side to side as if trying to escape the teeth holding it captive, a blue eye slowly turns, scanning its surroundings at a deliberate speed, and a diamond-set “L” swings left to change the word “LOVE” into “MOVE,” revealing a hidden “M” beneath. A one-minute tourbillon, one of watchmaking’s most respected and difficult complications, keeps rotating throughout, separate from the animated sequence.

Driving everything is the automatic in-house Calibre LFT AU05.01, built entirely by La Fabrique du Temps. Getting a movement to power a timed sequence of animations while also keeping accurate time is one of the harder engineering problems in watchmaking. Louis Vuitton has been working on this specific skill since 2021, when moving dial elements became a recurring feature of their high-end pieces, starting with the Carpe Diem and followed by the Fiery Heart. Each piece since has added more moving parts and greater mechanical complexity.

Louis Vuitton Automata watch

Building the dial required 23 different shades of a technique called champlevé enamel, a process that took over 250 hours of skilled handwork. Champlevé is one of the oldest forms of enamel craft, where sections of a metal surface are carved out by hand and then filled with coloured glass-based enamel, layer by layer, and fired in a kiln. Each colour has a different tolerance for heat, so the sequence in which they enter the kiln has to be carefully planned. The ones that need the highest temperatures go in first. If the order is wrong, the finish is ruined and cannot be undone.

To further enhance the depth and presence of the dial, individual elements are built up through successive layers of vitreous enamel, creating an almost pillowy, domed effect that is especially visible in the eye, the lips and the heart, adding to the sense that these elements are truly alive and in motion.

Louis Vuitton Automata watch

Running along the case is a bezel set with baguette-cut rubies and sapphires arranged in a full rainbow spectrum of colour, chosen because the cut displays the depth and richness of each stone to its best advantage without drawing the eye away from the dial. The case itself features sculpted, open-worked lugs, a design detail that gives the 42mm white-gold body a lighter, more architectural quality.

The Tambour Taiko case design was revisited in 2023, and this iteration presents a redesigned case with the pusher repositioned to 8 o’clock, combining the smooth lines and restrained curves of the Tambour legacy with an unprecedented level of surface finishing. The Monogram Flowers on the dial are also set with diamonds, adding further sparkle to the animated sequence. On the back, the 18K white-gold rotor has been hand-painted by artisans at Les Fabrique des Arts with clouds in opalescent blue pierced by sunrays and glints of light, rendered in miniature painting, another signature craft of the atelier,  carrying the joyous visual theme of the dial through to the movement itself.

Louis Vuitton Automata watch

La Fabrique du Temps was acquired by LVMH in 2011 and has since been responsible for some of Louis Vuitton’s most technically demanding watch projects. On the Tambour Taiko Arty Automata, it has brought together champlevé enamel, miniature painting, gem-setting and mechanical animation in a single object, with 23 enamel shades, over 250 hours of handwork and seven animated dial elements, all driven by a proprietary in-house calibre.

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