LF Review: ★★★★★
A tropical getaway is always a good idea to beat the chaos of urban life, and when it is at Havelock Island (now Swaraj Dweep), it is an experience that is several notches higher. This island, buried within Andaman & Nicobar Islands, is pristine, offering views that few have seen.
Luxe getaway
An hour and a half long ferry from Port Blair – the capital city of Andaman & Nicobar – brings me to Havelock Island, and my first view is fantastic. The turquoise waters, white sandy beaches, and lush tropical forests make for a picture-perfect moment, much like the rest of the trip.
Disembarking and walking across the jetty, I notice a plethora of colorful fish in a patch of shallow water. A short 10-minute drive later, I reach my resort for the trip, Tilar Siro, where I am welcomed with a bouquet of roses made with leaves! As we settle into the large room where I see a few rows of chairs, Anil Kumar, General Manager tells me that he would like to start with an introduction to the island.
I am told that the name of the retreat means ‘land emerging from the sea’ from the language of the Great Andamanese Tribe, who were the original inhabitants of the island. The island is small, about 92 sq. km., with only 25 sq. km. inhabited and the rest being reserve forests that are out of bounds for people.
Room story
The property is located on Beach number 5, Vijayanagar, and there are 25 rooms—garden facing and sea facing. My chic sea-facing suite, adorned in warm earthy tones, is located on the upper level. The large balcony has outdoor seating and offers a stunning view of the landscape, pool, and ocean at the edge.
A large wardrobe, a spacious bathroom with a skylight shower area, a large study, and a comfortable king-sized bed make this 450 sq. ft. space both roomy and comfortable. Special mention must be made of the metal art that has been handcrafted by Kerala-based artist Rajeev Valsala Kumaran. Keeping the ethos of sustainability at CGH Earth, these pieces use upcycled scrap metal and waste leftover from the resort’s construction, like nuts, bolts, discarded paintbrushes, and even a defunct metal cutter.
There are reusable glass bottles for water, and even the artisan active microbiome toiletries are from Probiotics House, based in Auroville (Puducherry). These chemical-free, non-toxic, non-polluting, completely natural, and sustainable cleansing products are great for your microbiome and are fully safe to use.
On the property
All the meals, including the high tea, are served at Marakele, the in-house restaurant. The food served is top-notch. If you are a seafood lover, this is paradise, as the chefs transform the day’s fresh catch into flavorful coastal delicacies.
The a la carte menu is extensive and features an array of dishes for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians. I tried a crunchy deep-fried banana flower fritter for one of my meals. It’s brilliant and unlike anything I have tasted so far. The buffet is based on occupancy, and there are live counters at breakfast that serve everything from dosa, puri, eggs, pancakes, uthappam, and more.
The in-house spa operates on principles of Ayurveda and offers a selection of treatments like Sirodhara, Pizhichil, Rasayana Uzhichil, and Saundarya Chikitsa. Therapists trained from Kerala use ayurvedic oils infused with herbs that ensure you have an authentic and relaxing experience.
Every evening, at 7 p.m., the resort hosts sessions telling all about the island. I attended two sessions educating about the tribes of the Andamans as well as the marine life of the region. It was an eye-opening insight into the island and its inhabitants. There are special activities for kids as well, including block printing, leaf craft, shell identification, the little naturalist program, and more.
One of the most unique things about the property is that this is the only place on the island where you can walk up to one kilometer into the sea during low tide. The in-house naturalists, Akhil and Sreelakshmi, take me on an intertidal walk where they point out the wonders of the ocean and help spot several marine species. I was lucky to even see a baby octopus and a variety of sea grass with several color variants.
Action-packed
There is a lot to see and do here. The retreat has the best sunrise—which you can see if you are up before 5:00 a.m. The colors of the sky here are fantastic, and the sunrise over the ocean is a magical sight. A birdwatching session helps you spot several endemic species within the property itself. Special mention must be made of the rare Andaman Boobook, an owl that is endemic to the island, and I was lucky to spot three of them on a mango tree here!
The Kalapathar Beach has a striking shoreline where black rocks contrast against blue seas. Take a walk into the Kalapathar Village to observe a slice of village life and their farming practices. Head to the Radhanagar Beach, one of Asia’s finest beaches with a Blue Flag certification, and walk through a shaded forest to Neil’s Cove, where you can see a brilliant sunset.
Being in the middle of the Indian Ocean means there is a lot of scope for water activities, and the retreat has tied up with Lacadives, a renowned diving school. Whether it is PADI-certified courses, customized dive packages, snorkeling, or scuba diving, they have experts who can guide you through it all. I experienced an early morning sunrise kayaking tour with them, and it turned out to be a magical experience. My snorkeling trip helped me spot clownfish, parrotfish, snappers, groupers, and more.
All in all, my first visit to Havelock Island was memorable in more ways than one, and I was glad it was through Tilar Siro. For once I really hope to be back again soon!
LF Review: ★★★★★
Coordinates: Beach No. 5, Vijay Nagar, Swaraj Dweep (Havelock Island), Andaman and Nicobar Islands, India
