UK’s Fellows Auctioneers brings out one of the rarest Rolex Explorer II, reference 1655, for its August Watches auction on August 29, 2024. This watch was Rolex’s answer to the unique needs of cave explorers, who faced total darkness for prolonged periods. This model was groundbreaking for its time, featuring a large orange 24-hour hand, a critical tool for distinguishing between day and night when natural light was absent.
The Explorer II’s design was a significant upgrade from the original Explorer, which lacked the functionality needed for such extreme conditions. The reference 1655 was specifically crafted to aid in navigating environments where traditional timekeeping methods were impractical. The orange 24-hour hand was not just a bold design choice but a practical solution for explorers who needed to maintain awareness of time in complete darkness.
This auction presents a rare opportunity to acquire a piece of horological history, embodying Rolex’s legacy of functional design and rugged durability.
Produced from 1971 to 1985, this model was equipped with more features tailored to the unique demands of cave exploration. For example, its 100-meter water resistance was practical for the often wet conditions in caves.
Although it introduced these practical innovations, the Explorer II initially struggled to capture widespread interest, leading to its discontinuation after just six years. Today, its rarity has made it highly sought after by collectors. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Explorer II features a stainless-steel case with a calibrated bezel and a 39mm diameter. It houses a signed automatic caliber 1520 movement, a black dial with luminous baton hour markers, and is mounted on a signed stainless steel Oyster bracelet with an Oyster clasp. It is estimated to fetch around $12,921.
In 1985, Rolex upgraded the 1971 model with a slimmer, red 24-hour hand, round applied markers, and the distinctive Mercedes-shaped hour hand. This update also included the Calibre 3085 movement, which allowed the hour hand to be set independently, improving its utility. For the 40th anniversary in 2011, Rolex revisited the orange-hand design, increasing the case size from 40mm to 42mm and updating the hands and indexes. However, the 1971 model continues to be a trailblazer.
“There is only a handful of these Rolex watches around in the secondary market. They are hugely valuable and sought-after watches, perfect for any collector. The story of the design captures the imagination, as well as it being eye-catching. I’m sure it will prove to be a popular lot in the Watches auction,” said Steven Yambo, Watch Specialist at Fellows. This is quite a dandy piece to add to your collection!
