LF Says: ★★★★
As the highway traffic dwindled, I sped away from the Madurai airport, eager to leave the chaos of a horrific three-hour flight delay behind, and head to Kodaikanal, my destination. With another three hours of winding roads ahead, I settled into the journey. The landscape shifted from the parched scrub forests typical of the plains to something dramatic. We were beginning to climb up the ascents. Towering trees with giant leaves loomed above, alternating between eucalyptus and pine.
It was 8:30 p.m., and the night was pitch black. The only sound was the hum of the tyres on the tarmac. Exhausted, I drifted off to sleep. I awoke suddenly as the car jolted to a stop. A small herd of deer had emerged from the dense undergrowth, their eyes glowing in the headlights. The forest had come alive with the sounds of jungle babblers and nightbirds.
Arriving late at night, Kodaikanal seemed cloaked in an eerie stillness. As we approached the gates of The Tamara Kodai, the air turned chilly, a stark contrast to the blistering 40 degrees I had left behind in Delhi. Shrouded in mist, the colonial-style loomed in the darkness.
I stepped out of the car, and the brisk 16-degree breeze bit into my skin, a sharp reminder that Kodaikanal’s cool embrace was no illusion. The sudden drop in temperature was shocking—this was India in August. Even Himachal Pradesh hadn’t been this cool in June. Shivering slightly, I realised that Kodaikanal’s magic would be different than the Himalayan towns.
Opening up to Kodaikanal
When morning broke, Kodaikanal unveiled itself in a breathtaking panorama. As I gazed out, clusters of homes dotted the distant mountains. The landscape was shrouded in a soft mist in the early light, with the hills stretching endlessly before me. The cold wind, though nerve-biting, had its charm. As I stepped back inside, the warmth of Tamara Kodai’s luxury suite enveloped me.
The suite itself was a masterpiece of comfort. Spacious and impeccably designed, it featured a king-sized bed draped in plush linens. There were thoughtful touches scattered throughout the room—soft lighting that created an ambience of tranquility, a reading nook by the window where you could lose yourself in a book, and a writing desk for moments of quiet inspiration. From the beautifully crafted wooden furniture to the sleek modern amenities, no detail was overlooked. There was even a private balcony with chairs to soak in the morning sun—if you dared to brave the cold.
As you move around the property, you realise it is enveloped in history. Originally built in the 1840s, it was once home to British District Judge Mr. Baynes. Later, in the 1860s, Mr. Baynes sold the bungalow to Fr. Louis Cyr, a renowned missionary in the region. The property was renovated and reopened as La Providence, a monastic retreat by Jesuit priests. In 2018, La Providence underwent an extensive restoration process, transforming into The Tamara Kodai, now a beautifully preserved colonial-style estate with old-world elegance and contemporary luxury. Additionally, this resort is the region’s first luxury property.
The most striking feature of the resort is the trio of cowled figures representing monks on the porch. Known as ‘The Three Fathers’, these statues are said to bless the reincarnation of their former abode. The colonial architecture is preserved in its stone walls, sloping tiled roofs, cosy fireplaces and sprawling verandahs.
Adorned with local artwork and vintage photographs, the reception area offers a glimpse into the resort’s past, adding a nostalgic touch to the luxurious atmosphere. The decor features warm lighting, earthy-toned interiors, high ceilings, polished wooden floors, and large windows overlooking the misty hills. As you walk among the clouds, a temperature-controlled pool and The Elevation Spa complete the experience.
Out in the Palani Hills
Having visited countless hill stations across India, I often wonder what makes Kodaikanal so captivating for travellers. As I navigated the winding roads of the Palani Hills, the town’s charm lies in its verdant landscapes. This quaint hill town enchants with its dense pine groves, emerald-green forests that blanket the hills, winding roads and a distinct colonial charm.
The town’s picturesque lakes stand out as serene highlights. The beautiful Kodaikanal Lake is a tranquil expanse where visitors can enjoy boat rides or stroll along the scenic promenade. From there, I ventured to Pillar Rocks, a breathtaking sight of three towering boulders, each rising over 400 feet. On a rainy day, the scene became even more magical, with clouds slowly drifting past, veiling and revealing the majestic rocks in turns. The interplay of mist and stone made for an ethereal experience.
Coaker’s Walk is a timeless gem of Kodaikanal. Created in 1872, this paved pathway clings to the mountain’s vertical slope and offers breathtaking views of Kodai town, the surrounding valleys, and distant hills. It is a sight that becomes even more majestic when viewed from above, where the sweeping grandeur of the landscape truly comes to life.
Then there is the century-old La Saleth Catholic Church, perched high on a staircase that seems to lead into the clouds. On a particularly windy day, the climb felt almost ethereal. Rich in history, the church is one of several around the world dedicated to Our Lady of La Salette, an apparition of the Virgin Mary. Its foundation was laid in 1863, and the once-Gothic structure is now painted in striking blue and white with stunning colour-stained glass windows. French and Belgian Catholics, alongside British administrators and American and Swedish Protestant missionaries, played a pivotal role in shaping Kodaikanal’s landscape—which blends faith, architecture, and cultural history.
For those seeking a quieter retreat, venture a bit further to the hidden gem of Vattakanal, a stark contrast to the bustling tourist hub of Kodaikanal. Part of its charm lies in its inaccessibility—there are no constructed roads leading to it, instead it’s a 14-kilometer trek. On the way, make sure to pause at Pambar Falls, famously known as ‘Liril Falls’ after the iconic late 1970s advertisement was filmed there. Among the most popular is the trail to Dolphin’s Nose, a rocky outcrop with panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. The distant villages scattered across the landscape appear like specks.
Getaway eating
Both gastronomically and ecologically, Kodaikanal unfolds as a delightful trove of surprises.
When Tamara Kodai was earlier La Providence, a monastic retreat, it retains a touch of its heritage as Bistro 1845—a charming French-style restaurant with a wine cellar-inspired entrance, where wine casks are neatly stacked in a rustic display. The restaurant retains the original cobblestone walls, preserving its historic charm. Outside, the setting becomes a tranquil escape to enjoy al fresco meals under vibrant red umbrellas as the morning sun bathes the misty green woods beyond.
The menu at Bistro 1845 offers an eclectic mix, from an à la carte selection of pizzas, pastas, and sandwiches to Indian specialities like Chettinad pepper fry biryani and mutton shorba. The meal began on a soothing note with a warm bowl of aromatic lemongrass noodle soup, setting the perfect tone. I couldn’t resist indulging in a meal of flaky parotta paired with richly spiced Chettinad mutton masala—the flavours were so vibrant and well-balanced, they felt almost too good to be true. To cap it all, the dessert of Ada Pradhaman (made with rice and jaggery) added a sweet finish to a truly satisfying lunch.
Tamara Kodai is also home to an all-day dining restaurant steeped in history. Once a library where priests delved into religious tomes, the space retains its old-world charm. Thick walls and dark green iron pillars with ornate brackets support an upper level that once served as a chapel. Today, this upper level has been repurposed as a library and recreational area for guests.
Dining spaces are thoughtfully nestled into cosy nooks by the original mullioned windows, blending heritage with comfort. At the heart of the restaurant is an opulent buffet spread, beautifully illuminated by a warm glow from multiple lamps suspended from the exposed raftered ceiling. Breakfast here is a delightful spread, featuring local favourites like Karra Pannayaram and Puttu Kadala Curry, complemented by a side of fresh, juicy Kodai fruits. The selection spanned diverse cuisines, from crispy dosas and indulgent chole bhature to buttery croissants. Every dish was so heavenly, it left little reason to venture beyond the resort for meals.
Kodaikanal’s charm as a hill station feels unique, standing apart from the rest. There’s a distinct quietness, serenity, and calmness here. Not many hill stations in India offer this sense of introspection anymore. Amidst the evolving trends of modern holidays—this hill station retains a space for simplicity, transcending the distractions of contemporary travel.
LF Says: ★★★★
Coordinates: #22, La Providence, St. Mary’s Road, Kodaikanal, Tamil Nadu, India
