“How clothes, personal history and attitudes merge is focal for us,” Alessandro Sartori said, explaining his vision. ZEGNA’s Autumn Winter 2025 Collection sees the same vibrant synergy. In 1963, Ermenegildo Zegna, the brand’s founder, introduced the Wool Trophy Awards in Australia to honor woolgrowers dedicated to producing the world’s finest wool. From this ultra-fine fleece, an exceptional thread is crafted annually, giving life to the lightest, softest, and most luxurious fabrics. Today, this pinnacle of ZEGNA’s wool expertise is known as Vellus Aureum.
The name draws inspiration from the myth of Jason and the Argonauts and their quest for the Golden Fleece, represented by a winged ram. In 2023, this pursuit achieved a remarkable milestone with a single wool fleece measuring just 9.4 microns in fineness. The latest collection and runway showcase pay homage to this ethos.
Models traverse soft, verdant hills reminiscent of Australia’s lush landscapes, where rolling greenery mirrors the bond between man and nature. The fluid lines symbolize the connection between distant worlds and crafts, united by shared artistry.
The silhouette for the collection takes on a deconstructed approach, with enveloping volumes and reimagined proportions. Macro patterns and Donegal motifs, drawn from the archives, underscore this play on dimensions.
Deconstructed blazers feature low, two-button closures, while oversized coats with cashfur collars hit just above the knee. Roomy blousons sport lapels or stand-up collars with elasticated waists, and knitwear takes center stage.
Deep V-neck sweaters reveal meticulously layered shirts, diagonal low-slung pockets invite relaxed gestures, and chunky sweaters and cardigans are tucked into high-waisted trousers.
The notchless shirt from spring returns in a knitted form, while sturdy yet soft suits in cashmere-cotton corduroy stand out. Washed Oxford suits exude a lived-in elegance, and the iconic Il Conte jacket continues its evolution, appearing in shearling, as a gilet, and in chore-inspired Oasi Cashmere jersey styles. Accessories like thick-soled loafers, sleek eyeglasses, and soft shoulder bags enhance the relaxed vibe.
“In this collection items are nonchalantly chosen and spontaneously mixed recounting an encounter of generations in the name of Italian style. The man I have in mind has raided a wardrobe in which pieces have been collected over the decades, for their emotional and material value. Working with washed wools and Vellus Aureum we have been able to transfer lived life into the garments. There is something quintessentially “Torinese” to this collection, in the cultured attitude the shapes suggest and the insouciant manner they are worn, which is a particular way of being Italian,” Mr. Sartori said.
The color palette is a tonal blend of neutral shades such as fossile, ginepro, dark foliage, serra, castoro, Gattinara red, and falesia—complemented by accents of Sessera, arnica, giglio montano, terracotta, and nero opaco.
Tactile, dense yet soft textures such as wool cashmere, cashmere-cotton corduroy, wool-mohair cover, flannel wool, and Oasi Cashmere elevate the season’s collection.
