Louis Vuitton winds back four decades of design with the Monterey, a timepiece that revives the maison’s first wristwatch, and reawakens the rebellious spirit that once disrupted traditional watchmaking.
The original designs, known as LV I and LV II, were created by Italian architect Gae Aulenti, who had recently transformed Paris’s Musée d’Orsay into a cultural landmark. Her approach brought a sculptural boldness to Louis Vuitton’s early horological story, merging form and function through an unconventional, pebble-shaped design. Nearly 40 years later, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton revisits that chapter with a measured sense of innovation and timeless intent.
Staying true to Aulenti’s vision, the Louis Vuitton Monterey maintains the lug-free, rounded silhouette, while introducing modern upgrades, including a 39mm yellow gold case, a white Grand Feu enamel dial, and an in-house automatic movement that replaces the original quartz caliber. The watch is limited to 188 pieces, bridging past and present with subtle innovation.
Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, said, “Reinterpreting a creation means respecting its design and spirit. We maintain the same graphic codes, but strive for a more modern and elevated feel.”
Louis Vuitton’s entry into watchmaking began in 1988, when the brand collaborated with Aulenti to design its first wristwatches. The LV I featured a 40mm pebble-shaped case in white or yellow gold, complete with railway track and date displays, GMT, and world time functions, while the smaller 37mm LV II was produced in scratch-resistant ceramic in black or green with a date and alarm function. Both watches carried their crown at 12 o’clock, a deliberate nod to pocket watches. These daring designs soon earned the affectionate nickname “Monterey,” inspired by the American pronunciation of montre, the French word for watch.
Over time, the Monterey became a collector’s favorite for its distinct form and fearless aesthetic. Vintage models have recently appeared on the wrists of today’s tastemakers and at Louis Vuitton’s Women’s Fall-Winter 2025 runway in Paris, where Nicolas Ghesquière paired them with futuristic silhouettes. That quiet resurgence of the 1988 pieces set the tone for their revival, proof that icons, when made with conviction, never truly fade.
The new Monterey dial reinterprets the graphic identity of the 1988 models, accented with red and blue twin scales marking the hours and minutes. Each dial takes around 20 hours to produce, involving multiple enamel layers fired between 800 and 900°C. Achieving the perfect shade of white requires precise layering and repeated firings, creating a smooth, luminous surface that enhances the dial’s clean aesthetic. The white gold syringe-style hands, painted in red lacquer with a blued steel seconds hand, give the watch a crisp, modern edge.
The enamel dial’s detailing goes through a complex stamping process using red, blue, and black enamel powders, each fired eight times to achieve color depth and balance. Two inscriptions, “FAB. EN SUISSE” and “LOUIS VUITTON PARIS” – anchor the design in both heritage and modern craftsmanship.
Every element of the case reflects precision and patience. The crown, positioned at 12 o’clock, is reworked with a Clous de Paris texture for a tactile finish. Beneath the strap, an engraving reading “1 of 188” discreetly marks each piece’s individuality, a secret detail only the wearer will know.
Inside, the LFTMA01.02 automatic movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 45-hour power reserve. The 18K rose gold rotor, notched with V-shaped motifs, recalls the LV Monogram, while the poinçon LFT engraved beneath the barrel serves as a quiet emblem of excellence.
“This watch represents a symbiosis between the old and present, respecting the design and spirit of the original while reinterpreting it for today. We retained the polished ‘pebble’ spirit, the unique leather attachment, and the iconic crown at twelve o’clock, all hallmarks of the 1988 Monterey. This white enamel, with its enamel decals, is not only a tribute to enduring craftsmanship but also offers a brilliance, tone and warmth that will last over time,” said Hegi.
By reviving its first wristwatch, Louis Vuitton reaffirms how design can evolve without losing its core character. The Monterey is not just a reconstruction of a classic, it’s a reminder of how creative language can continue to expand through precision and purpose. With 188 pieces crafted, this return to form feels less like nostalgia and more like continuity, where innovation extends the vision that began as a daring experiment in 1988.
